With summer just a few short months away, Scuba Divers are gearing up to go diving again. The harsh sun can be a divers worse enemy. Here are a few must carry along items to ensure you stay protected from the effects of the sun.

Sunscreen
Sunscreen, also commonly known as sun block, sun lotion or sun cream, is a must have item in your summer scuba diving kit. s a lotion, spray, gel or other topical product that absorbs or reflects some of the sun’s ultraviolet (UV) radiation on the skin exposed to sunlight and thus helps protect against sunburn. Sunscreen effectiveness can be measured by the sun protection factor of a sunscreen or SPF level which is a laboratory measure of the effectiveness of sunscreen. The higher the SPF, the more protection a sunscreen offers against UV-B. So, wearing a sunscreen with SPF 50, your skin will not burn until it has been exposed to 50 times the amount of solar energy that would normally cause it to burn.As a Scuba Diver you’ll probably want sunscreen that isn’t too oily, or greasy, which will cause your mask to leak, and also one that is preferably environmentally sound.

DriGrip SPF30 Sunscreen For Fishermen

RashGuard
A rash guard, also known as a rashie, or a rash vest, is a tightly-fitted garment made from either lycra, nylon or polyester, that is specifically designed for athletic wear or water sports to prevent the upper body from chaffing or getting rashes, but also doubles up as a sun protection layer. Back on the boat or above water while scuba diving or performing any kind of water sport, a rash guard is the best form of UV protection against getting sun burnt. Special UV ray protection rash guards are available made from fabrics that may provide up to UPF 50+ protection. While sunscreen is only as effective as you apply it, and leaves room for missed spots, a full sleeved rash guard can protect your upper body completely. This is especially useful to snorkelers, kayakers and surfers who spend extended periods of time with their backs exposed to the sun.

Pinnacle Rash Guard Long Sleeve Mens

Sunglasses
Sunglasses, shades or any form of protective eyewear designed primarily to prevent bright sunlight is a essential gear item for any Scuba Diver. Water tends to reflect the harsh rays of the sun like a mirror which can intensify the glare or light shining into your eyes causing headaches. Look for sunglasses that filter out 99%-100% UV light and provide maximum protection to your eyes.

100% Ultra Violet Polarized Dive Shades, Curacao style, Rimless Frame.

Cap
A Cap, hat, visor or any form of head gear with a visor to shield your eyes from the direct glare of the sun is another must-have accessory when heading out scuba diving. A Baseball cap, or a bucket hat will do nicely . Look for caps that are water resistant or won’t lose their shape if they get wet.

Leisure Pro Divers Baseball Cap

Water Bottle
Dehydration is a Divers worse enemy, so make sure you stay well hydrated by drinking plenty of water between dives. Carry along a couple of your own sipper bottles and some packets of ORS Oral Rehydration Salts to keep those essential minerals and salts in check.

Mcnett Aquamira Water Bottle & Microbiological Filter

© Aquaviews - SCUBA Blog, 2011. | Several Sun Protection Scuba Accessories for the Summer is an original article from Aquaviews.net | Be the first to comment!

There’s no better way for a diver to capture the memories of underwater experiences and all they see, than with underwater photography. Today, with the digital revolution in photography itself, he world of underwater photography too has opened up by allowing us to view the results of our shots immediately and share them very easily.

Featured above is the Sealife SL700 DC 1200 12MP Digital Camera

However, shopping for an underwater camera is just as hard as shopping for a regular camera for use above water with the different types, brands and features they offer. Essentially you have two choices in digital underwater photography- Underwater digital cameras or a regular digital camera with an underwater housing.

Digital Camera + Underwater Housing
Housed cameras are a good option for those who already have a compact point and shoot camera or a DSLR camera they want to use. You can buy an underwater housing specifically for your model of camera.

Underwater housings normally consists of a firm box that made of either aluminum or popularly polycarbonate plastic. Some housings are also made of a thick plastic bag with a glass port where the camera lens is placed. When considering an underwater housing make sure to pay attention to the maximum depth specified by the manufacturer as they do differ. Usually the plastic bag type housings are only guaranteed to be submersible to low depths of 15 feet (5 meters) or so. This is okay if you’re snorkeling or swimming but won’t be recommended for scuba diving. The hard case polycarbonate housings are designed for deeper use and have been tested for water pressure and such making them submersible to upto 130 feet (40 meters). Pictured above is the Intova IC12 12mp Digital Camera with 180′ Waterproof Housing.

By using separate underwater camera housings you do run the the risk of springing a leak if it’s not sealed properly and the housing floods during a dive. This could potentially damage your camera for good as it’s not waterproof. Waterproof housings for cameras also make the actual camera rather bulky and are not as compact as underwater digital cameras. Another disadvantage, is that housings are designed for specific models of cameras and brands. So if you want to upgrade to a new camera, the smallest change in size or control button position means you have to buy a new housing for it. Pictured here is the Fantasea Line FL-22 Underwater Housing for Nikon Coolpix L22.

Underwater Digital Cameras
If you’re looking to take underwater photos more seriously or dive very often, you may want to consider a camera dedicated to just that. Also known as amphibious cameras or submersible cameras, they are designed for use underwater and offer a variety of features for better clarity in the pictures you take. They are also smaller, much easier to carry, and they transport better than housed cameras. However, they tend to be on the more expensive side, because they are more specialized and compact. Pictured right is Sea & Sea DX-GE5 12.2 Megapixel Compact Digital Waterproof Camera.

With waterproof digital cameras you don’t run the risk of leaks or flooding as you may in housed cameras. These cameras also come with a variety of attachments you can have like, different lenses, strobe arm attachments and so on allowing you more flexibility than buying a third party housing. For anyone who is looking to document their scuba memories of a lifetime, an underwater digital camera is one of the best investments you can make!

© Aquaviews - SCUBA Blog, 2010. | Scuba Gear Buying Guide: Underwater Cameras is an original article from Aquaviews.net | Be the first to comment!

Fins are those all so simple, but very useful pieces of Scuba diving gear that any water-lover should own. As we’ve seen in an earlier post, fins have evolved from the basic, simple stiff plastic, composite or rubber paddle blade fins, to a number of new and improved designs that offer different levels of efficiency and function. The sheer variety of fins out there today is mind-boggling.

Your choice of fins should depend on what type of diving or water activity you wish to use it for as well as the conditions you’re likely to be faced with.

Swimming/Snorkeling Fins: If you’re a swimmer/ snorkeler a simple basic fin design will meet your needs. You need to remember less is more and stick to a shorter blade than if you were scuba diving, as at the surface a longer blade fin will prove to be more of a hindrance than help. The Aqua Sphere Zip Fins pictured right are a good example of a basic swimming fin or snorkeling fin.

Scuba Diving Fins: Scuba diving fins are have the most variations and variety in design. They have longer blades than the swim fins we saw above as you require more propulsion underwater when diving. Efficiency of the fin is a lot more important to divers as the leg strength and power they use to kick effectively, influences the energy spent and in turn air consumption too. Maneuverability and pivots and precise movements underwater are other things diver should look for in a pair of fins. The Mares Avanti Superchannel Full Foot Fins pictured left are an example of scuba fins.

Free Diving Fins: Free diving fins are considerable longer than swimming/snorkeling and scuba diving fins in order to move the diver the greatest distance with the least amount of kicks.The long blades of these type of fins offers more resistance but is designed for more power and speed than maneuverability. The Cressi Gara 3000 LD Fins pictured right are an example of free diving fins.

Open Heel Fins Vs Full Foot Fins/ Close-heeled Fins

Open-heeled fins or half- pocket fins enclose the front portion of your foot and uses a heel strap to secure the fin to your foot. The heel strap on the open-heel pocket fins can be either adjustable or non-adjustable. Open-heel fins or half- pocket fins enclose the front portion of your foot and uses a heel strap to secure the fin to your foot. While this type of fin can be worn barefoot, it is preferable and advisable to wear them over the right size Dive booties (neoprene boots). If you are deep sea diving or planning to dive in cold water, you will want these type of fins that’ll allow you to wear dive boots to provide extra exposure protection from the cold.

Pictured above- (left) Mares Avanti Quattro Open Heel Fins, (right) Aeris Velocity Full Foot Fins.

Also called full-foot pocket fins, the close-heeled fins enclose your entire foot just as a slipper encloses your foot. They are worn barefoot and have an opening at the end for your toes. Generally cheaper than open-heel fins, it’s important to try these fins on and make sure they fit snugly wherein you can still wiggle your toes. Too tight and they can cut circulation and pinch your foot resulting in blisters or chafes. Too loose and they can slip off your foot when you hit the water or kick.

Split fins

The Split fins design is where the fin blade is split in two parts by a lengthwise slit. Split blade fins are more expensive and said to offer slightly better propulsion and agility than the standard fins. However, some divers believe they are less effective than conventional fins in strong currents. These type of fins are a good option for those who tend to have muscle spasms in their legs. The way they are designed with an empty space down the center of the blade causes water propulsion behind the diver. They’re are fine if you are planning on going in a single forward motion the entire time, however they aren’t ideal for those who wish to back track and/or take photographs. The Apollo Bio Fins Pro C-Series pictured right, are the best user rated Split fins in the market today.

To see the Pro’s and Con’s of Paddle Fins Vs Split fins Click Here.

Fins With Channels

Channels help move the water across or through the fin, which allow the diver to move through the water quite rapidly. Channels increase the divers speed because they offer less surface area resistance in the water. Additionally, channels (depending upon their placement) offer extra fin flexibility, which means the fin can bend further and move more water with each kick cycle. See the Mares “Volo Power” Open Heel Fins with channels, pictured left for an example.

As always, while buying SCUBA Fins look for a good fit and features that suit your diving needs. If your dive fins do not feel as if they are an extension of your limbs, it could make for an uncomfortable dive experience.

© Aquaviews - SCUBA Blog, 2010. | Scuba Gear Buying Guide: Fins is an original article from Aquaviews.net | Be the first to comment!

When temperatures dip, there no reason to stop diving. All you need is better exposure protection suitable for cold water diving. Drysuits together with a hood, gloves and booties make the perfect gear kit that offers the best thermal protection when diving in frigid waters. No more shivers, chattering teeth, skin turning blue and the loss of feeling in your hands and feet on those less than tropical dives!

Here’s a look at what to consider when buying scuba diving exposure protection for cold water diving-

Drysuits
All dry suits are full length and cover the entire body, but they come in different materials.Neoprene drysuits are made of the same material as wet suits, except they exclude water. The Bare 2010 D-6 Pro Drysuit is an example of a Neoprene drysuit.

Shell drysuits are the more popular versions that consist of two pieces. They are loose fitting suits that provide ‘double protection’ with an insulating layer of air between the two materials. The outer part of this type of drysuit is a waterproof shell made from materials like neoprene, foam rubber, or a hybrid of both while the second layer is an undergarment, also made of several materials including bunting, open foam Thinsulate that provides insulation. Pictured left is the Bare Nex-Gen Pro Womens Dry Suit an example of this type of drysuit.

When buying a drysuit, the fit you should be looking for is not tight like a wetsuit. Instead, a drysuit should be a little loose fitting on the body so you can wear clothing inside it comfortably or undergarments for extra insulation, but not too loose so the air bubble inside plays havoc with your trim and buoyancy. The wrist and neck seals however, have to be snug and tight enough to keep water out without cutting off blood flow. It is best to choose and try on an undergarment when buying your dry suit.

Some suits feature suspenders which make it much easier to don and wear since they help keep the waist up where it needs to be rather than “baggy-ing” downwards. You also might want to consider drysuits with thigh pockets. These are a good feature to have and provide the best place to store those needed small things that you want with you on your dive. Much easier to reach than the pockets of your BC. Lastly, make sure the exhaust valve of the suit is in the proper place which is usually between the shoulder and elbow, pointing straight up when you hold your arm level with your shoulder. If it’s not in the right spot, then the air won’t escape adequately as it expands, which could prove dangerous during ascents. Pictured right is a Pinnacle Merino-Evolution Drysuit Undergarment.

Hoods
It is recommended to wear a hood when cold water diving as well as warm water diving. This is because 60% of a divers body heat escapes through his or her head. So, by keeping the head insulated with a hood, your entire body will remain warmer.

Most dive hoods are made out of neoprene, which is the most effective material, as it traps water between the head and the material. This in turn uses natural heat that gets trapped between the two, to insulate and keeps it from transferring to the open water. Warm/temperate water dive hoods are thinner in thickness (1.5-3mm for example) and don’t have a very as much neck coverage, or a bib as cold water hoods. Take for example the Pinnacle 3mm Beanie Hood pictured left.

Cold water dive hoods, typically have a sizable bib, which can be tucked into the wetsuit at the neck opening. The bib reduces the transfer of water and keeps the diver that much warmer. It also covers more of the divers face (forehead, jaw/chin and cheek areas), leaving less skin exposed to the water. Just like a wetsuit, a dive hood should offer a snug fit; if a hood is too loose, water will freely flow in and out of the hood and the diver will lose a lot of insulation. Some manufacturers include zippers along the back of the hood, which is particularly popular among those who have long hair. Pictured right is the Henderson H2 Titanium 7/5mm Hood.

Gloves
For cold water diving, gloves are a must to keep your hands warm. They don’t however, keep them dry. Just like hoods diving gloves are made of neoprene and the greater the thickness the better thermal insulation it’ll provide. There are 5 finger gloves, 3- fingered mitts and standard mitts. The more skin to skin contact you have, the more warmth you’ll experience. In other words, the standard mitts will be the most effective in keeping your hands warms, then the 3 fingered gloves and lastly the 5 fingered ones. However, in terms of dexterity it’s exactly the opposite.  And dexterity for a diver you needs to handle his scuba gear underwater, it quite important so it must be taken into consideration. Velcro straps around the wrists in gloves too help keeping water out to increase warmth.

Pictured up the Blue Reef 5MM Mens Glove with Velcro Band and the Bare Sport 7mm Three-Finger Mitt

Boots
Dive booties or diving boots serve two purposes- One, they are worn inside open heel fins for a better fit, and secondly they are used to keep your feet warm just like gloves work for the hands. Again, just as in diving gloves, diving boots come in various thicknesses. The thicker the neoprene material the more warmth it offers. Velcro straps at the ankles help reduce the water transfer and thus insulate better than ones without. Some boots offer zippers at the ankle that make the donning and ditching processes easier. The trade off is zippers though, that they then typically invite leaks into the boots.

Picture above: Bare 7mm Coldwater Boots and Tusa Imprex 3MM Dive Slipper

© Aquaviews - SCUBA Blog, 2010. | Scuba Gear Buying Guide: Exposure Protection (Cold Water Diving) is an original article from Aquaviews.net | Be the first to comment!

When diving in waters cooler than your body temperature, it brings down your temperature. In even the warmest, tropical waters, you tend to need a bit of thermal protection to keep warm on long dives. Hence, the need to wear  exposure protection like a wetsuit or dry suit. Another plus of wearing a wet or drysuit is that it provides your skin protection from the harsh sun, which divers seem not to notice when they are underwater but still affects our skin.

Here’s a closer look at Scuba Diving Exposure Protection and what you need to look for when buying any-

Rash Guard/ Skins
Either on the boat or above water while scuba diving, or when performing any kind of water sport, a rash guard is the best form of UV protection against getting sun burnt. Not exactly ideal for thermal protection but it’s still useful nonetheless. A rash guard (also known as rashie, rash vest or skin) is a versatile garment that serves many purposes and can be worn both as an inner layer or outer garment. Scuba Divers normally wear a rash guard inside of their wetsuits as extended periods in a wetsuit can cause chafing injuries with the skin constantly in friction with the wetsuit. Additionally the extra layer of clothing offers a tiny bit more insulation to the diver underwater by adding an extra layer, especially in the case of a full jumpsuit type skin. Take the Neo Sport by Henderson Lycra Skin Suit pictured right, for example.

While selecting a rash guard, if you want maximum protection from the sun, go for a full sleeve rash guard rather than a short sleeve one. Also, look for fabrics treated with a special UV coating (not all have UV protection), some offer up to SPF 200+ protection from the sun’s harmful rays and are tested and approved. See the Pinnacle Long Sleeve Womens Rash Guard for example.

Lightweight and quick drying rash guards are key to your comfort. They are usually available are available in nylon, lycra, spandex or polyester and some manufacturers even offer antibacterial fabrics as well. A good rash guard is a useful piece to have even if not for diving but for other water sports as while sunscreen is only as effective when you apply it, it leaves room for missed spots. A full sleeved rash guard can give you superior protection from the sun.

Wetsuits
Wetsuits are a Scuba diving basic. We think it’s a must-have Scuba essential as we mentioned in our 10 Rules of Buying Scuba Diving Gear post. For the perfect wetsuit it needs to have the right fit, thickness and style.

There a several choices of styles, when you go wetsuit shopping. There’s the Full wetsuit also known as the full body wetsuit with sleeves right up to the wrists and legs to the ankles. Needless to say it offers full protection and better warmth as it covers most of your body. Take for example the Cressi Castoro 5MM Mens Wetsuit pictured right.

Secondly there’s the Shorty. Shorties as the name suggests have short sleeves and end just above the knee. A good choice for warm water diving, many divers prefer shorties because it allows greater flexibility in movement underwater. They’re also a easier to put on and take of than a full length wetsuit. See the Henderson H2 Titanium Women’s 3mm Shorty pictured left.

Another option in style of wetsuits is the Farmer John/Jane which are two piece suits, with a sleeveless full length piece worn with a covering jacket. This style is also available in the shorty form. The Bare 3mm Women’s Sport Step-In Jacket pictured right is an example of the jacket style.

Thickness is probably the most important consideration you’ll have to make when buying a wetsuit. It’s a critical factor in keeping you warm and and toasty during a dive. The thicker the wetsuit the warmer it will keep you. Some wetsuits actually have 2 thicknesses on different parts of the wetsuit. For example a 5/3 mm wetsuit means the thickness would be 5 mm on the torso and 3 mm on the arms and legs. The Bare 5/4 Velocity Full Men’s Wetsuit pictured is a good example of this type of wetsuit.

Here’s a rough guide to what water temperatures and wetsuit thicknesses are often recommended. But remember, that it does ultimately depend on your cold threshold and personal preferences, there’s no right or wrong.

• 2 mm: Water temperatures above 85 F
• 3 mm: Water temperatures between 70-85 F
• 5 mm: Water temperatures between 60-70 F
• 6.5 mm: Water temperatures between 50-70 (at these temperatures the use of a drysuit can also be recommended)

It’s very important that your wetsuit fit perfectly for it to be effective. So trying on wetsuits before you buy any is crucial. If you can put it on easily it’s too big for you. Especially since you’ll be wearing your wetsuit when it’s dry on land, a sign of the right fit is, a little struggle, huffing and puffing when you put it on. Your Scuba diving wetsuit should feel snug on you and it will probably feel that your movement are restricted, which is normal. There should not be any large gaps in the underarm or crotch area. However, it may probably have a gap at the small of the back, which is ok. At the same time, the wetsuit shouldn’t be too tight so that it cuts off circulation at your wrists and ankle, or restricts movement so much that you can’t even bend your knees in them. Pictured right is the Mares Womens Isotherm Semi-Dry One Piece Wetsuit.

If you intend on diving in colder waters refer to our Scuba Gear Buying Guide on Cold Water Diving Exposure Protection.

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Easily one of the most important pieces of scuba diving equipment today, the dive computer is an absolute necessity for any serious diver. Referred to as a diver’s best friend, dive computers are a tool for dive navigation, telling depth, decompression stop calculation, logging information and safe ascent rate indication. Dive computers are an indispensable piece of dive gear for scuba divers and make diving much more safer and more comfortable.

Pictured above:Aeris Atmos AI Air Integrated Computer Console with compass & the Oceanic OC1 Air Integrated Hoseless Dive Computer Watch

We here at Aquaviews believe that after buying your own Scuba mask, snorkel and fins, a dive computer should be your next big scuba gear purchase on your list. However, for such a crucial purchase it’s not something you should take lightly. It’s important to take the time to research and know exactly what’s out there, in order to make a good decision on which dive computer is best for you! With all the different types and styles out there, it’s much like picking from a menu of whatever features take your fancy and appeal to you. What you need to look out for is a combination of the functions you need, in a single dive computer, and we’re here to help you with that.

Here’s a look into the different types of dive computers and their features to help you make the choice that fits your needs and even your pocket:

Styles:
There are essentially 2 types or styles of Dive Computers available- Wrist or watch style and console or module dive computers.

Wrist Dive Computers- The more popular choice among recreational divers today, mainly for their convenience, wrist dive computers as the name implies are worn on the wrist by the diver and look like large faced watches. An advantage this style of dive computer has over the console mounted style is that as it’s not connected to your other gear, it’s more versatile to be used with any scuba kit. (Take for example the Cressi Archimede II Wrist Computer pictured right.)

Console Dive Computers- This style of dive computer is a slightly more economical option. It is attached to other Scuba gear via a hose and typically come with a pressure gauge, unlike the most wrist mounted options (excluding air-integrated wrist computers). Advantage of this style is that the it is sometimes easier to read as the display is fairly large. (Pictured right the Oceanic VEO 1.0 Air/Nitrox Dive Computer SWIV Double Gauge Combo)

Dive Computer Features:

Basic Functions: Depth Gauge and Decompression Calculations
A basic and primary feature of all dive computers is the fact that it measures depth. It’s measurement of depth is a lot more accurate than an average analog depth gauge. Other than just that it carefully determines how much time was spent at each depth, all the while calculating decompression times, allowing you to focus more on the diving and the scenery rather than the math of diving. Based on your dive’s duration and depths, a dive computer calculates how many decompression stops you need to make and at what depths. It also calculates the surface interval time you need to spend between dives and also calculates when it is safe to fly after diving- an all important for divers who rely on air travel at the end if their diving vacations.

Advanced Features:
All dive computers, tell depth and do decompression calculations, but now a days they’re doing a lot more! More features on a dive computer don’t necessarily function any better than ones with less and they definitely don’t make your dives any more safer, but they are like icing on the cake and can make life a lot more easier and comfortable.

Read about all the different functions and special features you can choose in a dive computer in Scuba Gear Buying Guides: Dive Computers (Special Features)

© Aquaviews - SCUBA Blog, 2010. | Scuba Gear Buying Guides: Dive Computers is an original article from Aquaviews.net | One comment

In the first part of our buying guide on dive computers we saw the 2 main styles and the basic functions you’ll find in every dive computer (Click here if you missed it). Now here’s a closer look at some of the extra features you’ll find offered that differentiate dive computers from each other. By knowing what’s on offer and the choices you have, it’ll be easier for you to pick what may be the most suitable for you.

Auto Activate- Some dive computers automatically turn themselves on when submerged underwater at a particular depth. This helps if you are rather forgetful as others require you push a button to start while some will not work under water if they have not been activated on the surface first. Take the Mares Nemo Excel Dive Computer Wrist Watch pictured right for example.

Memory- Dive computers come with different memory storage sizes. What you may want to look for though is one that retains the memory incase the battery has to be changed during a dive day or trip. This way you don’t lose the data during a battery change.

Nitrox Compatible- Nitrox diving is becoming increasingly popular. While all nitrox dive computers can be used to make regular air dives, an air computer must be nitrox programmable in order to be used with a mixed breathing gas as it contains a higher percentage of oxygen than air. Well worth it if you intend on diving nitrox any time in the future or as possibility.
See the Suunto D6 Wrist Computer pictured left for example.

PC Connectivity- Many dive computers come with a way to download the information on it to your PC using an optional interface. This could be a very useful feature to have.

Backlight- Not all dive computers have a backlight or illumination feature that allows you see your reading more clearly in lower light conditions, but a lot do. A backlit display dive computer is a good feature to consider having especially if you do lots of low visibility diving, wreck dives and for cave diving. Take the Oceanic Pro Plus 2.1, Air/Nitrox, Air Integrated Computer pictured right for example.

Navigation - Today, dive computers allow you to supplement or replace your old-fashioned compass with digital displays of your heading. Dive computers with compass features and navigation now don’t even require you to have the instrument perfectly level to function properly. Some high end computers also offer a GPS (Global Positioning System) feature that uses satellites to mark exactly where you are. Extremely useful for those who keep detailed records of their dives for the purposes of search/recovery, treasure hunting, or dive site mapping.

Air Integrated- Air integrated dive computers measure tank pressure and estimates of how long your air supply will last at the current rate of air consumption. These dive computers are available in two types, one that can be attached to the end of a high pressure hose and it replaces the submersible pressure gauge or a high end hoseless air integrated dive computer which consists of wrist or BC mount instrument which acts as a receiver and a transmitter which screws into the high pressure port of the regulator first stage. It uses radio signals to send information about the air supply in your tank to the dive computer which displays this. Hoseless Scuba dive computers are among the most expensive dive computers you can buy.

Buddy Pressure Check- Swim to within 4-6 feet of your buddy and press a button to see his or her tank pressure – how easy could it be? No hand signals or disruptions. The Oceanic Atom 2.0 Air Integrated Hoseless Dive Computer Watch now comes with this swanky new feature!

High Definition -
Yes, now dive computers come in color and High Definition just like flat screen televisions, cell phones, PDAs, notebook computers and the likes. Just makes a dive computer way cooler! See the Mares Icon HD Wrist Dive Computer below

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Scuba Reels aren’t your average fishing reels, but rather an important piece of scuba equipment especially in technical, wreck and cave diving. Reels and safety lines are a tried and true way for divers to return to their starting point. By simply anchoring a line to a point just outside the cave opening or at the entrance point of the wreck you can unroll your line from the spool as you progress through the dive and when it is time to exit the cave or wreck, turn around and slowly wind the line back onto the reel until you’ve exited the cave/wreck.

featured above- Aluminum Reel with Tension & Locking system available at LeisurePro.com

So, what your looking for in a reel is simplistic function. Reels that are loaded with gadgets, gizmos and a dozen other functions, there’s a higher chance of things breaking or going wrong. In order to work properly, a reel needs a spool, handle, and line…it’s that basic!

What to look for when buying a Scuba reel-

Line: The most important thing about the reel is the line. When choosing a reel line, make sure it’s strong so it’s not likely to break if it comes in contact with sharp or jagged hazards faced when diving. A good durable braided nylon is a good choice.

Size & Length of the Line: Next comes the size and length of the line. Line comes in four sizes; #24, #36, #48, 1/8-inch. #24 is the smallest line available and is used during cave dives when line length is more important than strength. #36 is the next largest size followed by #48 which work very well on a wreck reel for wreck diving needs. Really large reels use 1/8 inch line, which is typically used for technical diving.

• A 4-inch reel typically comes with approximately 400 feet of #24 line, 300 feet of #36 line, 250 feet of #48 line, or 110 feet of 1/8-inch line.
• A 3-inch reel typically comes with approximately 175 feet of #24 line, 130′ feet of #36 line, and 100 feet of #48 line.
• A 5-inch reel typically comes with approximately 800 feet of #24 line, 550 feet of #36 line, 425 feet of #48 line, or 250 feet of 1/8-inch line.

Winding: When selecting which reel to use, take your other gear into consideration. If you wear thick gloves while diving, a finger spool might not be a very effective design for you. Cold water divers frequently prefer reels that have winding knobs, which allow them to wind the spool more easily.

Tension Control:Some reels offer tension control, which is typically controlled by a spring. Tension control keeps your line on your reel from free-spooling, or uncontrollably unwinding off of the spool. A strong argument for using a reel with tension is it allows you to control the rate at which a lift bag moves to the surface.

© Aquaviews - SCUBA Blog, 2010. | Scuba Gear: A Guide To Scuba Reels is an original article from Aquaviews.net | Be the first to comment!

You’ve probably already heard divers everywhere debate the efficiency of Split Fins vs Paddle Fins. Some say the Splits are no good in currents but offer ease and good propulsion in calmer water whereas paddle fins offer greater propulsion and finer control and feel. While it all boils down to a matter of preference and opinion and as to which type of Fins are better, we’ve got the arguments of both side to help you make your pick and decide either way.

Featured above: (left)Tusa X-Pert Zoom Z3 Open Heel Split Fins, (right) Oceanic Viper Open Heel Fins available at LeisurePro.com

Split Fins

Split fins are designed is with an empty space down the center of the blade, splitting it into two parts.The split blades act like separate propellers, twist independently during each stroke to a precise angle of attack that creates lift and thrust and cuts the water, causing water propulsion behind the diver.

The Pro’s of Split Fins-

• Split blades are said to have a unique flexibility that helps reduce ankle strain, fatigue and cramping often associated with the use of conventional ‘paddle’ fins.
• Splits help move the water across or through the fin, which allow the diver to move through the water quite rapidly because they offer less surface area resistance in the water.
• This type of fins works well for those who fin with the flutter kick method as each “leaf” or blade twists creating a propeller-like effect, great for straight-line speed.

featured above: Mares Raptor Open Heel Fins available at LeisurePro.com

The Con’s of Split Fins:

• Divers have often complain that you can’t feel split fins when kicking which is sometimes equated with a lack of power.
• What split fins lack the stiffness and body you need for frog-kicking, turning and backing up.
• These are fine if you are planning on going in a single forward motion the entire time. They are not ideal for those who wish to back track and/or take photographs.

Paddle Fins

Paddle fins have been around since the late 1940’s and changed little except for the materials used. The designs of this type of fins have slowly evolved from heavy stiff black rubber to something lightweight and comfortable.

The Pro’s of Paddle Fins:

• They offer, better maneuverability than split fins and are your best bet for slow, deliberate movements in any direction.
• Precise movements (pitch, angle, direction) can be felt with stiff paddle fins allowing for a better feel of them working.
• Pivots are easy with the large cross-section of the edge of the fin.
• Paddle fins are said to work very well in confined areas like commercial diving cave, wreck diving. Because of the high acceleration, they have also become a favorite for spearfishing.

featured above: Mares Avanti Superchannel Full Foot Fins available at LeisurePro.com

The Con’s of Paddle Fins:

• Because of the larger surface area of the blade, some divers find it too stiff and that it causes calf cramps. It’s said that Paddle fins cause more strain to the knees while fining too because of the larger surface area of resistance.

© Aquaviews - SCUBA Blog, 2010. | SCUBA Gear: Split Fins Vs Paddle Fins is an original article from Aquaviews.net | 2 comments

Gone are the days when a snorkel could just be compared to a hollow reed to breathe through with your head in the water. With features like purge valves, flexible snorkels, dry, semi-dry snorkels and rotating mouth-pieces, whether you are just looking for a snorkel for when you dive or just for snorkeling there are a number of options in the market today. However, the most important qualities to look for in a snorkel is it’s comfort in your mouth, it’s length in case of a swell or wave and the ease of clearing water out of it.

Types of Snorkels
There are basically four popular types of snorkels both for divers and snorkelers. They are-

*Featured above-Cressi Sub Freediving Corsica Snorkel, Akona Caicos Snorkel, Aqualung Impulse Dry Flex Snorkel and Genesis FS7000 Mojave Dry Snorkel. All available at LeisurePro.com

1. Those with straight tubes. They are the most inexpensive of all of the types.
2. Snorkels that are tubes with purge valves on the bottom
3. The kind that contain a flexible sections close to the mouthpiece. If the tube is not in use, it will drop away and that is a great feature for scuba divers.
4. The best types are the kind that have a tuba and mouthpiece that are simple to replace.

Choosing A Good Snorkel For Scuba Diving
There are differences between snorkels that are ideal for snorkeling and those that are best fit for scuba diving. The first myth is that snorkels are unnecessary. Nothing could be further from the truth. If you were to run out of air before reaching the dive boat, you will face a struggle swimming back to the boat. Snorkels also help conserve air in your tank while you are on the surface resulting in longer dive times!

When choosing a scuba snorkel just make sure it has only the features that you need for a successful diving venture. It should be comfortable and it should drop to the side of your face when not in use. In fact, you should not even be aware of it until you need it. You cannot go wrong with a scuba snorkel that is simple and lightweight with few “extras” included.

You will want to make sure that your snorkel gear is an appropriate fit before your dive, and your snorkel mask is certainly no exception to the rule. The tube should fit under the strap of your mask and should extend above the surface of water. It is designed so that you will breathe in air through your mouth comfortably and without any restrictions.

What’s a Dry Snorkel?
One of the most popular snorkels on the market is a dry snorkel. What this means is that water will not enter your snorkel if you are submerged in water or if a wave crashes over you. Because water cannot enter the snorkel, you never have to worry about expelling it in order to breathe.

With all the advantages of dry snorkels there are a few important things to remember when choosing one:

• Do not get one that is heavy. A bulky dry snorkel will cause you to drag in the water therefore the likelihood of water entering your mask increases. That would negate the entire purpose of the dry snorkel!
• The snorkel should attach firmly to the mask strap. It should be able to slide in all directions with ease so that your snorkel can be positioned comfortably in your mouth without tugging the strap.
• Be careful of snorkels that have a lot of added features such as dry tops, purge valves, and flexible tube mouthpieces. While these do offer some advantages, they tend to add bulk to your snorkel causing more hassles than they are worth.

*Featured above – Cressi Sub Delta 2 Snorkel and Aeris Cuda Dry Snorkel from LeisurePro.com

© Aquaviews - SCUBA Blog, 2010. | How to Choose A Good Snorkel is an original article from Aquaviews.net | Be the first to comment!