Winter’s here, but that doesn’t mean you have to give up diving and wait for the temperatures to rise. Dry-suit up and dive on! Drysuits are an amazing piece of Scuba diving gear. No more shivers, chattering teeth, skin turning blue and the loss of feeling in your hands and feet on less than tropical dives. Dry suits as the name suggests keep you dry when you’re wearing them except for maybe your head and hands. They enable divers to make more and longer dives than using a wetsuit in temperate waters and not to mention the the option to experience rarer dive sites in cold waters.

Drysuit Styles
All dry suits are full length and cover the entire body unlike wetsuits which come in options of shorties and full length wetsuits. However, drysuits are available in different materials. Neoprene drysuits are made of the same material as wet suits, except they exclude water. Shell dry suits are the more popular versions that consist of two pieces. They are loose fitting suits that provide ‘double protection’ with an insulating layer of air between the two materials. The outer part of a drysuit is a waterproof shell made from materials like neoprene, foam rubber, or a hybrid of both while the second layer is an undergarment, also made of several materials including bunting, open foam ThinsulateTM that provides insulation.

Important Features in a Dry Suit

Watertight zipper: Originally developed by NASA to hold air inside astronaut space suits, dry suits have a these special waterproof zippers to keep drysuits dry. Commonly fitted across the back of the shoulders, drysuit zippers can also be placed diagonally across the front of the torso, on the side, or straight down the middle of the front or back. They’re the most expensive part of a dry suit, but the most important to keep water out.

Wrist/neck seals: Dry suits seal at the wrist and neck to keep water out. Made of neoprene or latex rubber, these need to seals need to fit snugly without cutting of circulation, but keeping water from going in.

Air Exhaust valves: As air forms the key layer of protection between the two shells, dry suits feature valves to release air that balloons out the suit as air in the suit expands on ascent. Some modern dry suits have valves so you can add air as you descend or release it as you come up to accommodates the pressure change. Due to this feature divers need not use a buoyancy compensator (or BCD) and buoyancy control differs from wearing a regular wetsuit.

Tips for Buying a Drysuit

• Unlike a wetsuit, a drysuit should be a little loose fitting on the body so you can wear clothing in it comfortably or undergarments for extra insulation, but not too loose so the air bubble inside plays havoc with your trim and buoyancy. The wrist and neck seals however, have to be snug and tight enough to keep water out without cutting off blood flow.
• Choose your undergarment when choosing your dry suit. That way you can try them both on.
• Look for drysuits with thigh pockets. These are a good thing and provide the best place to store those needed small things that you want with you on your dive. Much easier to reach than the pockets of your BC.
• Some suits feature suspenders which make it much easier to don and wear since they help keep the waist up where it needs to be rather than “baggy-ing” downwards.
• Lastly, make sure the exhaust valve of the suit is in the proper place which is usually between the shoulder and elbow, pointing straight up when you hold your arm level with your shoulder. If it’s not in the right spot, then the air won’t escape adequately as it expands, which could prove dangerous during ascents.

*Products Featured above: Pinnacle 2008 Freedom Drysuit Unisex, Bare CD4 Men’s Pro Drysuit, Bare Nex-Gen Pro Dry Suit Mens Black. All available at LeisurePro.com

Most likely if you’ve gone Scuba Diving a couple of times, you’re hooked and will be planning a lot of your vacations where you can dive some more.  And  sure, when you start off you can get away with just your basic mask, snorkel and fins while renting the rest, but how long do you plan on keeping that  up. Let’s face it diving isn’t a cheap sport and add gear rental charges for every time you dive is not a lot of fun or smart. So, if you’re planning on diving long term, make a commitment to buy your own Scuba gear. It doesn’t have to be an all-or-nothing choice . You can buy gradually, piece by piece working your way to a full Scuba diving kit.

Here are 10 Rules for Buying Dive Gear:

1. Get it right the first time. Look at buying Scuba equipment, as a one-time investment. Buy what you need and good quality gear the first time around. Don’t say, “I’ll start cheap and upgrade later,” because it will end up costing you more money in the long run.

2. Research before you buy. Don’t go in blind when you walk into a store. Read past user reviews, scope out all your options of styles, brands and features, so that ultimately you are ready to make an informed decision. This doesn’t mean not looking around in the store or deviating from what you know.

3. Don’t go strictly on recommendations or what your friend says. People in the diving World often have strong opinions on the brand/ manufacturer of their choice and won’t always be objective when suggesting what’s right for you. From ScubaPro to Oceanic or Mares to Tusa, diver’s play favorites and what’s great to them isn’t necessarily right for you.

4. Try, Try and Try. Try on the gear and sample its features before you buy it. If you’re buying Scuba gear online, make sure the website you purchase from has a long enough window for returns (like LeisurePro’s 60/120 days return policy), incase you’re not fully satisfied with anything about the piece.

5. Only buy the right size. Don’t buy gear that doesn’t fit properly, no matter how much you like it or have your heart set on it. Even if it’s just one size big or one size small, don’t convince yourself you can make it work. Fit is everything when it comes to Scuba equipment. From the right fins, buoyancy compensators to just a simple dive masks, the fit of your equipment underwater can influence things like- air consumption, buoyancy control, maneuverability and just plain comfort and enjoyment of the dive.

6. Purchase your equipment through an authorized dealer for that manufacturer or a reliable store like LeisurePro offering a an equal or better warranty service. Don’t skimp on the warranty or service agreements when it comes to buying equipment.

7. Invest in a dive computer. It will enhance your diving experience allowing you to dive deeper, longer and safer, if used properly. Dive computers are fast becoming a Scuba diving essential which no diver should be diving without.

8. Look for features you need. There’s no need to go overboard with extra features on any piece of equipment, just because it’s offered by the manufacturer. Stick to quality over quantity. While choosing, remember that fancier doesn’t necessarily increase safety or make it better than other pieces with lesser features.

9. Buy a Wetsuit. You will need it, no doubt about it. Trying on wetsuits can be an exhausting and frustrating struggle, but it’s very important to have one that fits perfectly so don’t give up until you find one. If you can put it on easily, it means it’s too big for you. A little struggle while trying it on dry is a sign of a good fitting wetsuit. At the same time it shouldn’t be so tight as to stop circulation at your wrists or ankles is it’s a full wetsuit.

10. Go with your instinct and feel. At the end of the day, no amount of research or recommendations should cloud your own judgment on what feels ‘right’ when you try it on. Shop when you have a lot of time to spare to make a decision and not when you have to rush of to somewhere else.

And lastly (yes, I know I said 10… but here’s one for good measure)- Make good use of the Scuba gear  and equipment you buy. Happy Diving People!!

* Pictured Above- Mares Scuba Package #3

As part of our 100th post celebration on AquaViews a LeisurePro online Scuba Magazine, we’re bringing you the Top 100 Pieces of Scuba Gear & Equipment as rated and reviewed by thousands of loyal LeisurePro customers and Buzzillions.com users. If you’ve missed the first part to our extensive list of the most popular Scuba equipment including the Top 10 Scuba Regulators, Top 10 Buoyancy Compensators, Top 10 Dive Computers, Top 10 Scuba Fins & Top 10 Scuba Masks click here.

Continuing from where we left off here’s more of the very best Scuba Diving Equipment, all available at LeisurePro.com with a best price guarantee. (For any more details or the price of any of the products featured here click on the links.)

Top 10 Wetsuits

1.  Bare 3/2 Velocity Progressive Stretch Full
2. Pinnacle Merino-Elastiprene 5mm Jumpsuit
3. Neo Sport 1mm Mens Neo Skin Jumpsuit
4. Pinnacle Spirit 3mm Shorty (Mens)
5. Henderson 3MM Mens Neoprene Shorty
6. Bare 3/2 Velocity Progressive Stretch Full (Women’s)
7. Henderson 3mm Titanium Hyperstretch Auqa Suede Shorty
8. Cressi Comfort Plus 5mm Women’s Jumpsuit
9. Scubapro Everflex Steamer 3mm Womens Jumpsuit
10. Akona Women’s 3mm Shorty

Top 10 Underwater Cameras

1. SeaLife DC800 Reefmaster 8.1MP Underwater Digital Camera
2. Vivitar Vivicam 8400 8.1MP Digital Camera
3. Sealife SL185 DC800 Pro Set Digital Camera
4. Intova IC800 Underwater Digital Camera 8MP
5. Sea & Sea DX-1G 10 Megapixel Digital Camera and Housing
6. Sea & Sea DX-1200HD UW Digital Camera
7. Ikelite Substrobe DS-51 SubStrobe Package
8. SeaLife DC1000 Reefmaster 10.1MP Underwater Digital Camera
9. Intova IC10 Underwater Digital Camera 10MP
10. Epoque EHD 800-Ai Underwater 8 MP Digital Camera & Housing

Top 10 Booties, Gloves & Hoods

1. Seasoft Sunrays 3mm Low Cut Boots with Zipper
2. Deep See 6.5mm Mens Safe Sole Boots
3. Blue Reef 5MM Mens Dive Boots with Zipper
4. Tusa Warm & Cold Water Glove “New Style” (DG-5000)
5. Blue Reef 2MM Sport Glove with Velcro
6. Bare 7-MM Cold Water Hood
7. Henderson 7-MM Titanium Hyperstretch Pull-On Glove
8. Pinnacle 7mm Merino-Barracuda Boot
9. Bare 7-MM Dry Hood
10. Pinnacle 5mm Merino Lined Hood

Top 5 Drysuits

1. Bare CD4 Men’s Pro Drysuit
2. Pinnacle Black Ice Unisex, Dry Suit
3. Pinnacle Freedom 2 Drysuit Unisex
4. Bare Nex-Gen Dry Suit 2007 Package
5. Apollo 4.0 EX Dry Suit Mens, Black

Top 5 Dive Lights

1. Underwater Kinetics Sunlight “C8 eLED” Dive Light with Pistol Grip
2. Underwater Kinetics Sunlight SL4 Dive Light
3. Princeton Tec NEW 337 Lumens Miniwave LED
4. Lazer-Stik Battery Powered Marker Light, Flashing
5. Aquatec Aqua Star LED Torch

Top 5 Dive Knives

1. Wenoka “Squeeze” Lock Titanium Knife, Tanto Tip
2. Blue Reef Deluxe 5″ Titanium Knife, Point
3. Atomic Ti6 Titanium Knife
4. XS Scuba Beta Titanium Knife Blunt Tip
5. Tusa Mini BCD Knife, Blunt Tip

Top 5  SCUBA Accessories

1. Akona Weight Bag (AKB944)
2. Seacure Hi-Flow Mouthpiece
3. Super Accessory Hanger for Gloves, Hoods and Boots
4. Suunto SK7 Add-On Compass for Cobra, Vyper & Gekko Consoles (end mount)
5. Aqua 36″ Quick Release Coil Lanyard with Brass Clip and SS Split Ring

Celebrating our 100 post here on AquaViews, brought to you by LeisurePro- The #1 store for Scuba diving and snorkeling equipment, we only thought it apt to share the Top 100 Pieces of Scuba Gear & Equipment out there today. Rated and reviewed by thousands of loyal LeisurePro customers as well users on the popular review site Buzzillions.com, we’ve compiled an extensive list of the most popular Scuba equipment under different category heads below, all available at LeisurePro.com with a best price guarantee.

For any more details or the price of any of the products featured here click on the links.

Top 10 Scuba Regulators:

1. Scubapro Uwatec Scubapro MK25/S600 Regulator
2. Apeks XTX200 Regulator
3. AquaLung Legend LX ACD Regulator
4. Sherwood SR1 Regulator
5. Aqualung Mikron Regulator
6. Aqua Lung Legend ACD Supreme Regulator
7. Mares Abyss 22 Regulator
8. Scubapro MK17/G250V Regulator
9. Oceanic Delta 4 FDX10 Diaphragm Regulator
10. Mares Proton Ice Extreme Regulator

Top 10 Buoyancy Compensators/ Buoyancy Control Devices

1. Dive Rite Transpac Harness
2. Zeagle Ranger LTD BCD with Ripcord System
3. Aqua Lung  SeaQuest Pro QD + BCD with SureLock 4. Tusa Platina Evolution BCD
5. Zeagle Stiletto BCD
6. Aeris Contour Women’s BC
7. Seaquest Pro QD with i3 Technology BC
8. Mares Womens Kaila Scuba BCD
9. Sherwood Avid CQR2 BCD
10. Sherwood Luna BCD with CQR Weight Integration System

Top 10 Dive Computers

1. Sherwood CG7125 Wisdom 2 Dive Computer with Compass and Quick Disconnect
2. Suunto “Gekko” Air/Nitrox Wrist Computer
3. Suunto D6 Wrist Computer
4. Suunto “D9″ Hoseless Air/Nitrox Wrist Computer with Transmitter
5. Mares Puck Wrist Computer
6.  Suunto Cobra Air/Nitrox Air Integrated Computer Console
7. Uwatec Aladin Smart Z Hoseless Wrist Air/Nitrox Computer with Transmitter
8. Mares Nemo Wide Wrist Computer
9. Aeris Manta Scuba and Free Diving Wrist Computer
10. Oceanic “Veo 250″ Air/Nitrox Dive Wrist Computer

Top 10 Scuba Fins

1. ScubaPro Jet Fins
2. Apollo Bio Fin Pro C-Series – with Stainless steel fin strap
3. Atomic Aquatics Split Fins
4. Tusa X-Pert Zoom Open Heel Split Fins (SF-8)
5. AquaLung Slingshot Open Heel Fins
6. Oceanic Vortex V12 Split Fins
7. Oceanic Caribe X Full Foot Fins
8. Aeris Velocity X3 Open Heel Fins
9. Sherwood Kinesis Open heel Fins
10. Mares Avanti Superchannel Full Foot Fins

Top 10 Scuba Masks

1. Scubapro Crystal VU Single Lens Mask with Purge
2. ScubaPro Frameless Single Window Mask
3. Cressi -Sub “Big Eyes” Black Skirt Mask
4. Tusa Visulator Mask (M-14)
5. Cressi-Sub “Matrix” Two Window Mask
6. Atomic Aquatics Frameless Mask
7. Atomic Aquatics Subframe Mask
8. ScubaPro Scout Two Window Mask
9. Genesis SM5800 Tri-View mask
10. Sherwood Mako Frameless 1 Window Mask

More of our Top 100 Pieces of Scuba Gear  in AquaViews 100: The Very Best Of Scuba Diving Equipment (Contd.) – includes Top 10 Wetsuits, Top 10 Underwater Cameras, Top 10 Booties, gloves and hoods, Top 5 Drysuits, Top 5 Dive Knives, Top 5 Dive Lights & SCUBA Accessories.

Not completely entertained looking at the fishies and underwater landscape? Or Just tried of hearing your own bubbles spewing out of your dive regulator?

Well, now you can listen to your favorite tunes from Michael Jackson to Taylor Swift um, Pink Floyd all while you’re swimming, snorkeling or even Scuba Diving! Enter the Underwater MP3 Players or Waterproof MP3 Players. Yes, these amazing pieces of modern technology actually allow you to enjoy music underwater.

You listen to music while working out, jogging, cycling, driving…then why not while swimming?

To start with we have the and the Intova H2O Man G3 Waterproof MP3 Player and the Finis Waterproof Swim MP3 V.2, both waterproof up to 3m or 10 ft, it’s not exactly suitable for Scuba Diving but great for getting your groove while doing laps in the pool. The Intova Waterproof MP3 player takes an Micro SD card of 8GB maximum capacity and up to 10 hours playing time whereas the Finis SwiMP3 player can store 256 MB of music. The SwiMP3 uses bone conduction – when the device is placed on any bones of the skull results in the direct transfer of sound vibrations from the cheek bone to the inner ear – which provides the swimmer with exceptional sound clarity.

Another way to splash around while keeping the beats is by using a waterproof MP3 player housing just like underwater digital camera housings. Underwater housings like the H2oAudio S4-1A2 SV-iP4G come with a waterproof headset and silicon earplugs. They support different MP3 players like the Apple iPod. Again the H2o Audio MP3 player housing is submersible up to 10ft/ 3m making it suitable for swimming, surfing and snow/wake boarding.

Lover’s of the outdoors will love the underwater MP3 Player housing from Aquapac. The Aquapac Waterproof MP3 Player Dry Bag is a guaranteed 100% waterproof protection for your MP3 Player or new iPod. The housing is designed to be hands-free as it straps to your arm with a velcro armband allowing you the use of both your hands whatever your favored water activity is. The Best part of this housing is it’s guaranteed submersible to 15 feet (5 meters). However if you plan on using your player while swimming, snorkeling or other water sports you’ll need waterproof headphones, which Aquapac does make but it is sold separately- Aquapac 100% Waterproof Headphones. Although the headphones are tested to a depth of 10m/30ft it’s not suitable for depths beyond 10ft/3m where water pressure may cause hearing damage.

Music while swimming…that’s great! But what about Scuba diving where you dive below 10ft you ask?

There’s a housing out there for that too. H2o Audio’s new iDive300 waterproof case with speakers that clip to your mask strap or can be tucked under a dive hood are just the answer. Waterproof down to 300ft/90m underwater it’s deeper than you’ll be using it for recreational diving. Compatible for Apple different generations of iPods, the iPhone and iTouch, this is a great way of playing music and videos underwater. A fun toy or means of entertainment for divers on decompression stops or simply for recreational purposes, it does however have a drawback. The sound can carry a bit underwater and this might not be much to the liking of your dive buddy nor the fish. It’s also important to remember that, you should no way use these products if you aren’t comfortable with your diving skills and get easily distracted by new contraptions. Have fun but Always Dive Safe and respect the space you dive in.

*All products pictured above available at LeisurePro.com (*except H2o Audio’s iDive300 available at www.h2oaudio.com)

In a previous post we discussed the Basics of a Buoyancy Compensator, How it is used and Types of BCD’s.  Buoyancy Compensators are among the most expensive pieces of equipment a diver uses. If you are taking the step to own your entire dive kit, you need to know exactly what you’re looking for and your range of choices out there.

Here’s a few points you must consider while choosing a Buoyancy Compensator or Buoyancy Control Device.

Fit
This is probably the most important, as recreational diving is pretty straight forward and you’re looking for comfort when you dive. If you have ever gone diving with a rental that didn’t fit well, either it was too loose or tight, you spend a lot of time wasted on adjusting which just takes out of the fun of the dive.

A BC that is loose, when inflated will ride up your arms and it also pulls your tank up to your head level making it uncomfortable to turn. You also tend to adjust a lot during your dive if that’s the case. A tight BC on the other hand can be more harmful than just uncomfortable. When inflated it can squeeze you and restrict your breathing.

So first thing, try the buoyancy compensator on and consider how it feels. Inflate it to see whether it feels tight then. Moves your arms and check if it’s constricting movement in any way. It should fit comfortably -not too tight across the shoulders, under the arms or around the waist. You should be able to move in it but the jacket by itself should not be able to slide on your body side to side.

Lift Capacity
Lift capacity is not as important a consideration for recreational diving, but it always good to know. It is typically determined by floating an inflated BC and adding weight to it until it sinks. An average lift capacity for a BC is in the 30-40 lbs. range. Most BC’s will have sufficient lift for the average diver.

When it comes to cave, wreck or technical diving and if you plan on carrying extra gear and more than one tank the lift of the BCD is more crucial and should be considered accordingly. Ask the expert at the dive store to determine the lift of the BC you’re looking at purchasing.

Pockets, Buckles, Velcro and More
It’s a good idea to check if the BC you are considering has sufficient pockets and that they are in a good place for easy access. Check the closures, whether buckles or zipper and the velcro that usually straps across your waist. Check that it comes with enough rings to attach your other equipment, if not you can add some on.

Weight Integration
Some of the more modern styles of Scuba BCD’s come with an integrated weight system which are essentially weighted to render your weight belt unnecessary. not needing the traditional weight belt can be a cool thing as you won’t have to worry if you forget your weight belt or of the weights sliding around when you dive.

What you do have to pay attention to is whether it can hold the weight you require for the type of diving you do as well as whether the weight can be easily released in case of an emergency. While you need one less piece of gear (a weight belt), they do cost a bit more than your regular BC. It maybe worth the little extra.

Air Dumps and Pressure Release Valves
Not a necessity or requirement but a feature that could be nice to have is an extra air dump. If it’s situated by your shoulder or near the bottom of the BC, for instance, you will be able to release air no matter what position you are in.

It’s more important to consider where your pressure release buttons on the BC are located and whether easy accessible.

Whatever style and feature on the Buoyancy Compensator, the fit and comfort is the most important. Hopefully these few points will make choosing the right BC easier for you. Take a look at the widest selection of diving gear and equipment at LeisurePro, including Buoyancy Compensators from the leading dive brands for the best choices.

Pictured products (top to bottom) Cressi Sub Travelight BCD, Zeagle 2009 Ranger LTD BCD, Mares Prestige BC With MRS Plus Weight Pockets. All available at LeisurePro.com

A Buoyancy Compensator (BC) or Buoyancy Control Device (BCD) as it is sometimes known is one of the most basic pieces of dive gear or equipment needed to SCUBA dive. If you’re looking at owning your own set of gear, diving as a profession or even a long term hobby, next to your Scuba regulator it’ll probably be the biggest investment in your dive kit. So how do you choose the right buoyancy compensator for you? Let’s start with the basics and understand BCD’s to help make that purchase easier.

What is a Buoyancy Compensator and Why do divers use it?
Just as the name suggests, Buoyancy Compensators are a device that helps divers control their buoyancy underwater to attain neutral buoyancy. Diver’s have to wear heavy gear like the Scuba tank which make diving possible in the first place. The heavy equipment coupled with the fact that the human body wasn’t designed for underwater existence, brings the need for some man made help- A Buoyancy compensator (BC). A BC is crucial to a diver staying underwater at a neutral level underwater so that they are not floating to the surface or sinking to the bottom uncontrolled.

A BC or Buoyancy Control Device (BCD) is essentially a inflatable vest/jacket worn by a diver with air pockets.Air is added into the BC if you want to rise in the water and there is a release mechanism that lets air out of the BC to descend, thereby allowing the diver to control his buoyancy underwater. However a BC jacket is needed for more than just buoyancy. It forms the central part to securing the entire dive kit together. A divers air supply i.e the Scuba tank is strapped onto the back of the buoyancy compensator. Integrated with a harness to strap the tank on your back, the BCD also has pockets and straps for your gauges and octopus. In short, it secures all your other necessary dive gear to it.

Types of Buoyancy Compensators
There a two types of BCD’s in wide use today-

1) Jacket or Vest Style BC’s
This is the most common type of BCD used in recreational diving today. As the name implies it looks just like a vest or jacket. The air pockets wrap around the diver from back to from and the front is fastened with buckles.

The jacket style of scuba BCDs is stabilizes and allows a diver to float vertically at the surface as it it’s pockets around the divers body, fill up evenly with air.

2) Back Mounted or Wing Style BC’s
This second type of buoyancy compensator is not as common as the first. It has it’s air pockets located at the back of the vest and when filled the air pockets fill up on either side of the tank much like wings.

The advantage of this style of BC is that it allows more freedom of movement as it doesn’t wrap around the sides of the body. It can also be quite modular and allow for two tanks and more weight to be carried with out obstructing. Technical divers prefer this style of BCD’s. The wing style BCD also tends to put the diver in a horizontal position since the air pockets are on the back.

In the next post on SCUBA Gear we’ll talk about what features and parts you’ll want to look at while buying a buoyancy compensator. Till then take a look at some of our other Scuba Gear articles here .

Pictured above Aeris Atmos LX BC (left) ,Mares Prestige BC With MRS Plus Weight Pockets (right, top), Bare Blackwing BCD (right, bottom). All available at LeisurePro.com

A common question from divers and non divers alike is what’s the difference between a wetsuit and drysuit and how can you tell one from the other. The most obvious answer comes from the name itself- a drysuit keeps you dry and a wetsuit doesn’t.  Then the question arises, why use a wetsuit instead of a drysuit? Here’s a closer look into exposure suits or exposure protection as they are called in Scuba Diving.

The Need to Wear an Exposure Suit
When diving in waters cooler than your body temperature, it brings down your temperature. In even the warmest, tropical waters, you tend to need a bit of thermal protection to keep warm on long dives. Hence, the need to wear an exposure suit like a wetsuit or dry suit. Another plus of wearing a wet or drysuit is that it provides your skin protection from the harsh sun, which divers seem not to notice when they are underwater but still affects our skin.

Wetsuits
The most popular form of thermal protection for divers is the wetsuit. Made from neoprene, a synthetic rubber foam filled with thousands of tiny gas bubbles, wetsuits work on the principle that your body is the best source of heat.

Wetsuits fit snugly, close to the body. Once you enter the water the material allows a thin layer of water through the suit filling the space between your body and the inner layer of material. This layer of water warms up because of your body temperature and it helps to keep you warm throughout your dive. A loose fitting wetsuit will let water flow in and out of the gap between the wetsuit and your body has to waste energy heating the “new” water making it pointless to wear.

Wetsuits come in various thicknesses providing more protection and insulation for colder waters and lighter insulation in warmer waters. Some scuba divers can dive in tropical water wearing only a lycra body suit, commonly known as a dive skin, while others need a 2mm wet suit. Some scuba divers can dive in cold water wearing only a 6mm wet suit, while others need the protection of a dry suit. If you are scuba diving in water below 55F (12.7C), a dry suit is the warmest type of thermal insulation available.

Drysuits
Drysuits as the name describes keep you completely dry. A dry suit can be made out of foam neoprene, crushed neoprene, vulcanized rubber or heavy-duty nylon. They use a combination of wrist seals, a neck seal and a waterproof zipper to keep you dry. Drysuits fit more loosely than wetsuits and allow you to wear clothes or other insulating layers underneath.

Drysuits allow you to add air in between the layers of material from your tank which provides insulation which is also why maintaining neutral buoyancy in a dry suit requires different skills than maintaining buoyancy in a wetsuit. Drysuit diving usually takes some getting used to and there are special courses to teach it.

Drysuits have inflator valves, which allow you to add air into the dry suit, and an exhaust valve, to release air from the dry suit. Commonly found on the outside of the left bicep and the exhaust valve automatically releases air as you ascend. The inflator valve is similar to the power inflator on a buoyancy compensator vest and is often situated on in the middle of your chest on the suit.

Exposure Suit Recommendations

76°F – 86°F     1/16″ (1.6mm) neoprene or lycra dive skin/wetsuit
69°F – 84°F     1/8″ (3mm) neoprene wetsuit
64°F – 77°F    3/16″ (5mm) neoprene wetsuit
49°F – 75°F    1/4″ (6.5mm) neoprene wetsuit
33°F – 66°F    3/8″ (9.5mm) neoprene, drysuit

Temperature and  Suit Thickness based on average manufacturer recommendations

Pictured above: Henderson H2 Titanium Women’s 3mm wetsuit, Bare CD4 Men’s Pro Drysuit available at www.leisurepro.com

There has been no shortage of debate on the subject of whether a Diver really needs to carry a dive knife. Many against, argue that a dive knife serves no real purpose, other than to make the wearer feel more like an international spy. Also popular is the misconception of a dive knife being carried as protection against marine life which is very far from the truth.

A Diving Knife is an emergency tool, to be used only when needed and not to be used as a weapon. Just like the airbags in your car, or for that matter the safety sausage or whistle on your BCD; you may not use them, but you’re always so much better off just having them there.

The primary reason for carrying a knife on a dive is to free yourself or your buddy, should you get tangled in the ever increasing amount of fishing line or net strewn around the ocean each day.  A diver getting caught in fishing line is definitely not uncommon, and most who have escaped this predicament will never again consider diving without one. For those of you that dive in and around kelp forests the possibility of getting entangled in sea kelp is another very good reason for having a sharp knife handy.

Several divers have used their knives not just to free themselves but to help free marine life trapped in stray fishing line or nets. A handy knife can also serve as a great anchor to the sea bed in heavy current to prevent you from drifting away when your hands cannot get a purchase on any rocks or outcrops. Lastly, even though you may never find the need to use your dive knife (and thankfully so), a knife could simply be used as a good ‘tank-knocker’ for getting your dive buddies attention underwater.

There is argument that a sawing away at rope or fishing line underwater with a knife is not the most effective way to free oneself in an emergency, which is why recently shears and line cutters have been increasingly favored over knives. Both are pretty cheap and work better than a knife on fishing line and heavy rope.

However at the end of the day, it is always better to carry along with you at least one form of cutting tool, rather than be caught up in a situation where you wished you had one.

Pictured above Aquatec T-REX Titanium Knife (right) & OMS Compact Titanium Line Cutter (left), Available at LeisurePro.com

Just as man took to the skies like a bird with the airplane, Scuba gear is man’s way of taking the plunge to explore the blue world underwater. Scuba Diving is an amazing way to discover what nature has in store for us with 70% of our planet covered in water. For those unfamiliar with the sport the equipment a diver uses may seem complicated and a little daunting to try, but this guide aims at pointing out the basic Scuba gear a diver uses and how it works. If you choose to take up diving, a part of your Scuba diving certification training is dedicated to the diving equipment, how to assemble it and how to use it safely and responsibly.

Visit Scuba gear on Polyvore.com for details on the gear pictured above or visit www.leisurepro.com

Mask & Snorkel: Needless to say Dive Masks are your windows to the underwater world. Keeping water out of your eyes and making your view of coral, fish, sea mammals and other life that much more clearer. Masks prove very important as they are have an air pocket in front of your face which allows you to equalize your ears while descending.  The snorkel on the other hand is not really considered a necessity but proves useful when breathing at the surface before descending, without having to use the air in your tank.

Dive Booties and Fins: Fins are to a diver exactly what a tail and fins are to a fish, a means for movement and propulsion underwater. Diving fins are important in terms of helping a diver move with ease, navigate and work again currents. When a diver moves easily and effortlessly underwater using good Scuba fins they in turn conserve more energy, thus using up less of their air supply.  Dive booties are neoprene boots worn with fins for a snug fit. (See How good dive fins can make a difference.)

Wetsuit: Wetsuits are more than just dive apparel. Their primary function is for warmth. Made from neoprene, wetsuits preserve body heat by trapping a layer of water against the skin through the material. This water warms up because of body heat and acts as an insulator. Wetsuits unlike dry suits are not good insulators against very cold water but are decent protection from minor thermo clines (changes in water temperature at different depths) and are available in different thicknesses making them suitable for diving in different water temperatures.

Tank: A Scuba tank is where the air a diver breathes is stored. A common misconception about diving is that a diving tank is filled with oxygen, which is not true. For Scuba diving, the regular air we breathe is compressed at about 3,000 psi and filled in the tank/cylinder divers use. It has the same composition of regular air which is around 78% Nitrogen, 21% Oxygen and the remaining other gases.

Buoyancy Compensator (BC)/ Buoyancy Control Device (BCD): A BCD or Buoyancy Compensator is a vest like fitted jacket to which the tank is strapped on and worn by a diver. The BC is connected via a hose to the tank and has air pockets which can be inflated and deflated with a push of a button allowing you to control your depth in the water and also compensating the weight of all the equipment including the tank used by a diver. Another way of inflating a BCD is manually as they have a mouth piece you can blow into.

Weight Belt: People are positively buoyant and therefore need weights to help them descend and stay underwater while diving. Typically weights are added to a belt that goes around your waist or in some cases weights can be put into your BCD pockets. The amount of weight needed differs from person to person depending on body fat and a person’s natural buoyancy.

Regulator: A Scuba regulator is what allows you to breathe underwater. The regulator attaches to the top of the tank and then has a hose connecting it to a mouthpiece allowing you to inhale air underwater. The main function of the diving regulator is that is reduces the pressure of the air that is stored in the tank from 3,000 psi to a safer level and more breathable 140 psi. (See How a Scuba diving regulator works.)

Alternate air source: Your alternate air source is a spare regulator used incase your primary regulator for some reason fails or if you need to share air with your dive buddy if he/she runs out.

Pressure Gauge: Also connected to your tank your pressure gauge indicates how much are is left in your tank during a dive. This gauge is also normally accompanied with a depth gauge on the same console. Sometimes a compass and dive computer can be added to the console.

Dive Computer: All dive computers tell you 4 basic things- Your current depth, your maximum depth during the dive, length of time underwater and how much longer you can stay safely underwater at any particular depth. Depending on the model of computer, it can also tell you much more information and have a lot of different features.