Your choice of scuba fins will depend on what type of diving you do as well as your location. One thing for certain is that your fins must fit properly. If your dive fins do not feel as if they are an extension of your limbs, it could make for an uncomfortable dive experience.

Featured above- Oceanic Vortex V-16 Split Fins available at LeisurePro.com

Here are a few things to look for when making your decision on fins:

1. If you are on vacation and are looking to surface dive, force fins are your best option. They are very comfortable and are made of polyurethane, so there is no danger to sea life.
2. If you are deep sea diving or planning to dive in cold water, you will want scuba fins with adjustable straps i.e open heel fins. This will allow for warming booties as well as provide your feet extra protection from the elements.
3. Split fins are a good option for those who tend to have muscle spasms in their legs. The way they are designed is with an empty space down the center of the blade causing water propulsion behind the diver. These are fine if you are planning on going in a single forward motion the entire time. They are not ideal for those who wish to back track and/or take photographs. Featured right-Cressi Palau (LAF) Long Adjustable fins available at LeisurePro.com

Figure out which category you belong to and choose your fins accordingly. The right fit should be of utmost importance, and don’t be cheap. Quality fins are one thing that can make or break a scuba diving excursion.

Getting the Right Size Dive Fins
Sizing your scuba diving fins can be a very confusing phase when purchasing scuba gear. Every manufacturer has its own sizing chart, so you should focus on which brand you prefer and stick with it. They all have standard sizes, but each one has its own sales spin to make its product stand out. Words such as ‘Channel Thrust’ or ‘Optimum Angles’ could be used to differentiate the bells and whistles unique to their type of fins. Phrases such as these may mean that a particular fin is more effective at propelling you forward with less effort.

There are also some manufacturers that don’t carry a wide range of sizes such as S, M, L, XL. They may only have S/M or L/XL so be careful when choosing. Review their size chart thoroughly.

Last thing to be taken into consideration when finding the right size fin is whether you will be diving in a wetsuit or dry suit. The latter will generally require that you go up one size … a good piece of information to know when searching for that perfect pair of fins!

Featured above- Akona Azione Full Foot Fins available at LeisurePro.com

We’ll admit there are quite a few Scuba Toys and nice to have gadgets out there in the market that would make you crazy if you were a scuba gadget freak. It’s often difficult to tell whether you actually need something or not, and which product is the best for your requirements. Today we take a closer look at an interesting device, handheld Scuba Sonar which is a handy device to have around, but do you really want another item clipped on to your BCD? We’ll let you decide.

Sonar devices being used in Scuba Diving is not a new concept. Although used heavily by fishermen, underwater surveyors, search & retrieval groups, Ice Fishing etc.   Many scuba divers use sonar devices on their dive boats that help them pinpoint dive sites and wrecks, and discover new sites and spot fish. However these devices are large, expensive and need to be fitted to the boat offering  little or no portability.

* Featured above is the Hawk Eye Handheld Digital Sonar System, DF2200PX available at Leisurepro.com

Handheld Sonar devices however are a new gadget to be introduced to recreational diving, and with enhancements in miniaturization of circuitry and extended battery life, devices such as the Hawk Eye Handheld Digital Sonar System are becoming increasingly affordable and popular with recreational scuba divers, and can be used for fishing, ice-fishing and snorkeling as well.

Other forms of hand-held sonar include the LIMIS (= Limpet Mine Imaging Sonar) designed for patrol divers to clear mines in low visibility but has found commercial use though still extremely costly and larger in size.

Although not as sophisticated as the larger versions, handheld sonar operate more as a range-finder using Sonar (Sound Navigation and Ranging) technology  in which  a pulse of sound(called a Ping) is transmitted and distance measured off a receptor that calculates range based on the time taken for the signal to return.

Hand-held sonar has its applications in Scuba Diving in so many ways. It can be used Scanning for depth changes, making it ideal to locate your dive site, which may be a wall or a drop-off, or even pinpoint a ship wreck. The device is even more useful to those who need to reach their dive sites without a dive boat. The hand-held sonar device will allow a diver to drop directly on to your target, after a surface swim which may be a wall, a drop-off or a wreck without wasting precious air exactly at the depth you wish to dive to. Those of you who have shore-dived before will know how difficult it is to find that drop-off or wall, or wreck accurately.

Handheld sonar is a great tool for exploratory dives, and locating new and interesting dive sites without fancy boat mounted equipment. Mapping dive sites has never been easier, and depth and distance measurements being recorded during the dive make this a simple task. With the added feature of the fish finder which is found on the Hawkeye Handheld Digital Sonar System, which lets the user know when fish pass through the sonar ping by flashing a fish icon on the display. This is helpful in locating large shoals of fish or the presence of marine life for your exploratory dive, or spear fishing trip.

The Hand held sonar range finder allows you to point it at the surface, boat, wreck, reef, etc and instantly know how far away the object or the surface is, which will help divers plan their time, and return trip to the boat comfortably. Most devices also feature temperature sensors as well which allow you to measure changes in water temperature which is an added benefit. In murky waters and poor visibility dives, several users of the hand held sonar have used it as a buddy locator if necessary.

*Photo Credits: photo from flickr by torbenator

Even though most divers will seldom find the need to buy their own Scuba air tank compressor, it often helps to understand the process by which our dive tanks get filled.

A compressor like a pump, essentially increases the pressure of a gas while reducing its volume so that a larger quantity can be carried by diver in a smaller air tank. A Scuba compressor unlike an ordinary compressor needs to perform two tasks; compress air to very high pressures in excess of 3000PSI and secondly filter and purify the air to make it fit for breathing.

Featured above: Max-Air 90 Standard Gas Compressor available at LeisurePro.com

The most common type of scuba air compressors involves staged compression where air is compressed to increasing pressures and cooled after each stage. In very basic terms a compressor works in three stages. Air is sucked in through an air filter into the first stage where a large piston compresses the air down to around 100-140psi. The air leaving the first stage is hot as heat is generated as a byproduct of the compression. This needs to be cooled before it enters the second stage or it would ruin the pump. Hence the air is passed through an inter cooler coil that dissipates the heat before being sucked into the second stage where a piston compresses the air again to around 800 to 1,000 psi. Once again the air is passed through inter coolers and before entering the third stage passes through a moisture removal separator , that allows the moisture from the air to trickle out the bottom and sends only the dehumidified air into the third stage where the air is compressed up to 5000psi. From the third stage the air is once again cooled using the inter cooler and once again passed through a moisture separator or two before being fed into a Scuba tank at 2700-3000Psi using a bleed valve.

Featured above: Max-Air 35 Compressor from LeisurePro.com

As a diver’s life quite literally depends on the quality of breathable air in the scuba tank, air filtration is an integral component of scuba air compressors and ensure clean odorless and moisture free air.  A Scuba Air compressor must remove water/moisture and oil which the moisture separator and desiccant filter handles. Next Carbon Monoxide must be rendered harmless using a catalyst that oxidizes the Carbon Monoxide (CO) in the air, into harmless Carbon Dioxide (CO2). Carbon Dioxide in high concentrations can kill a diver and hence that too must be reduced using Activated Carbon filter cartridges and a molecular sieve. Other Hydrocarbons are also removed when passed through the filter cartridges and molecular sieves that render the air fit for diving.

Now you know why scuba compressors are so expensive. Usually larger compressors used at dive shops pump air into a large tank from which it can be re-distributed to smaller scuba tanks, making the process much quicker. Portable air compressors are perfect for a recreational diver, but can often take time to fill cylinders.

Winter’s here, but that doesn’t mean you have to give up diving and wait for the temperatures to rise. Dry-suit up and dive on! Drysuits are an amazing piece of Scuba diving gear. No more shivers, chattering teeth, skin turning blue and the loss of feeling in your hands and feet on less than tropical dives. Dry suits as the name suggests keep you dry when you’re wearing them except for maybe your head and hands. They enable divers to make more and longer dives than using a wetsuit in temperate waters and not to mention the the option to experience rarer dive sites in cold waters.

Drysuit Styles
All dry suits are full length and cover the entire body unlike wetsuits which come in options of shorties and full length wetsuits. However, drysuits are available in different materials. Neoprene drysuits are made of the same material as wet suits, except they exclude water. Shell dry suits are the more popular versions that consist of two pieces. They are loose fitting suits that provide ‘double protection’ with an insulating layer of air between the two materials. The outer part of a drysuit is a waterproof shell made from materials like neoprene, foam rubber, or a hybrid of both while the second layer is an undergarment, also made of several materials including bunting, open foam ThinsulateTM that provides insulation.

Important Features in a Dry Suit

Watertight zipper: Originally developed by NASA to hold air inside astronaut space suits, dry suits have a these special waterproof zippers to keep drysuits dry. Commonly fitted across the back of the shoulders, drysuit zippers can also be placed diagonally across the front of the torso, on the side, or straight down the middle of the front or back. They’re the most expensive part of a dry suit, but the most important to keep water out.

Wrist/neck seals: Dry suits seal at the wrist and neck to keep water out. Made of neoprene or latex rubber, these need to seals need to fit snugly without cutting of circulation, but keeping water from going in.

Air Exhaust valves: As air forms the key layer of protection between the two shells, dry suits feature valves to release air that balloons out the suit as air in the suit expands on ascent. Some modern dry suits have valves so you can add air as you descend or release it as you come up to accommodates the pressure change. Due to this feature divers need not use a buoyancy compensator (or BCD) and buoyancy control differs from wearing a regular wetsuit.

Tips for Buying a Drysuit

• Unlike a wetsuit, a drysuit should be a little loose fitting on the body so you can wear clothing in it comfortably or undergarments for extra insulation, but not too loose so the air bubble inside plays havoc with your trim and buoyancy. The wrist and neck seals however, have to be snug and tight enough to keep water out without cutting off blood flow.
• Choose your undergarment when choosing your dry suit. That way you can try them both on.
• Look for drysuits with thigh pockets. These are a good thing and provide the best place to store those needed small things that you want with you on your dive. Much easier to reach than the pockets of your BC.
• Some suits feature suspenders which make it much easier to don and wear since they help keep the waist up where it needs to be rather than “baggy-ing” downwards.
• Lastly, make sure the exhaust valve of the suit is in the proper place which is usually between the shoulder and elbow, pointing straight up when you hold your arm level with your shoulder. If it’s not in the right spot, then the air won’t escape adequately as it expands, which could prove dangerous during ascents.

*Products Featured above: Pinnacle 2008 Freedom Drysuit Unisex, Bare CD4 Men’s Pro Drysuit, Bare Nex-Gen Pro Dry Suit Mens Black. All available at LeisurePro.com

Submersible Pressure Gauges or SPG’s essentially measure the amount of remaining air pressure in a Scuba air tank. SPG’s are connected to the high pressure hose in the first stage before the air travels to the pressure-reducing second stage valves. Pressure gauges usually are classified into two kinds   mechanical or digital.

Mechanical SPG’s
Mechanical SPG’s generally use what is known as a Bourdon tube which is a non-liquid pressure measurement device comprised of a curved tube open to external pressure input on one end and is coupled mechanically to an indicating needle on the other end. Air pressure pushes against a diaphragm which in-turn pushes against the oil-filled tube, causing the coiled tube to expand like a filled garden hose. The tube end is attached to a fixed lever that turns the indicating needle which then indicates pressure on a graduated dial. Mechanical SPG’s require a high pressure hose to connect to the first stage. Standard mechanical SPG’s can be an independent gauge  i.e. one dial attached to the high pressure hose, or part of a console, with a compass and a depth gauge as a part of the instrument console.

Featured above: Genesis PG2226 Pressure Gauge available at Leisurepro.com

Mechanical SPG’s are also found in the form of button gauges which are simply circular button shaped gauges not connected to a high pressure hose, but directly to the first stage of the air tank. As button gauges are difficult to read if mounted on a divers primary air-source, they are often used on sideways mounted additional air-sources or on pony-tanks or air bottles.

Featured above: (button gauge) H2Odyssey Pony Pressure Gauge for Spare Air available at Leisurepro.com

Digital SPG’sDigital SPGs use a transducer, an electronic device that converts pressure into voltage. The voltage is then converted into a digital signal that drives a digital readout.

Digital SPG’s can be Hoseless or Dive Computer Integrated. In a Hoseless Digital SPG, the transducer is connected to a wireless transmitter which can be directly connected to the first stage without an SPG hose. The pressure readout display contains a receiver that can be placed into an instrument console. Certain wrist worn dive computers have built in receivers, and come along with the transmitter which can be attached to the first stage. These are known as Dive Computer Integrated Digital SPG’s.

Featured above: Aeris Epic Hoseless Wrist Computer available at LeisurePro.com

So how do you choose your SPG? Digital or Mechanical? Preference varies from diver to diver, each type of SPG has its own Pro’s and Cons. Some divers prefer to use both to get an accurate reading; a mechanical SPG on the high pressure hose and wireless transmission to their dive computers where they can use both. Wireless SPG’s are costly, and depend on a battery source which may fail or be susceptible to extreme temperatures. However they enable the diver to look at one single instrument console or computer for all their information, and streamline the scuba diving equipment as they eliminate the need for a SPG hose.

Choosing Scuba weight belts is more about personal preference than a recommendation, additionally, there are so many kinds of weights to choose from that it is often almost impossible to make an decision if ever you have to purchase weights. The best approach to select a particular type of weight belt is to be able to test them out first preferably in a swimming pool to see which kind you are most comfortable with or in need of.  Try renting out different weight belts and test your buoyancy and trim to see what works best for you. Some of the more common type of weight belts are:

Lead Block Belts
Lead Block Belts are the most common type of weighting for Scuba use, which consists of a two –three inch nylon belt with a quick release buckle onto which lead weights, which may be coated or uncoated lead of varying weights ranging from 2 – 15 pounds can be attached/laced through the loop as per requirement. Lead block belts are also the most inexpensive kind of weight-belt, and is notoriously known for causing discomfort due to the weights digging into the divers hips. However that being said, it is also one of the most commonly found type of weight if you rent scuba equipment from a dive store.

* Pictured above: Sea Pearls Uncoated Lace Thru Style Weights available at Leisurepro.com

Pocket Belts
Pocket weight belts comprise of a regular nylon belt with pockets running along the length of it, into which lead blocks may be added as a cheaper option or neoprene Lead Shot pouches as the more expensive option. The benefit of the pocket weight belt is that it is easy to add and subtract weights to adjust buoyancy after each dive, and the weights don’t dig into the diver’s sides as much making it a more comfortable alternative to the basic lead block belt.

* Pictured above: XS Scuba Weight Belt available at Leisurepro.com

Lead Shot Belts
Lead shot belts consist of a pocket or a pouch into which round lead shot can be filled based on desired weight requirement. The primary benefit of using a lead shot belt is that is much more comfortable to wear on a dive as compared to a block belt. It is said that most divers once they have switched to lead shot, will never switch back. Custom pouches can be purchased either cylindrical or rectangular to suit the divers need.  The problem with the shot belt is that it is difficult to adjust the weight needed for each dive as buoyancy changes over time, and needs supplemental pocket weight blocks to overcome this. Alternatively you can create or purchase smaller shot pouches to add or remove from your main shot belt as desired.

* Pictured above: Aqua Lead Shot Soft Weights available at Leisurepro.com

Brace Systems
Brace Systems comprise of a harness belt that may or may not come with a backplate, onto which quick release weights can be attached onto distributing the weight over a larger area.  Brace systems are ideal for anyone with a back problem as the weight is distributed, and much more comfortable to wear than a hip belt. Brace systems with a steel plate help evenly distribute the weight of the tank as well. In case of an emergency the weight bags/pouches can be released easily.

*Pictured above: OMS One Piece Harness System #BP-166 available at Leisurepro.com

Integrated Weights
Integrated weights are systems built into your BCD. This eliminates a need to carry a separate belt, and most people find them much more comfortable than weight belts while diving. The only downside is that it makes your scuba  BCD unit heavier to move around before and after the dive

V-Weights
V-weights are used by divers that carry twin tanks. It consists of a v-shaped or “toblerone” shaped lump of lead weight that sits between the two cylinders, keeping the weight of the divers lower back. V-weights are comfortable to carry and divers do not need to wear a weight belt. However, V-weights cannot be jettisoned in case of an emergency ascent.

Featured above: Xs-Scuba “V” Weight Pouch #WB550 available at Leisurepro.com

V-Weight Type 2
The second kind of V-weight which is mounted in between the backplate and the diver is sometimes known as a P-weight or Polish Weight. This can be used by divers using a single tank, but require a backplate and harness belt system.

Tail Weights
Tail weights are essentially V-weights that are mounted lower down the twin tanks usually bolted to the bottom plate to give the diver more trim. Tail weights help divers maintain a horizontal position more easily by distributing the weight lower down. More recently, Tail weights have been available in the form of scuba air tank end caps, or lead weight belts that can be attach

Featured above: 7.25″ Tank Boot with 5 LB.Weight available at Leisurepro.com

Ankle Weights
Reduces leg and fin buoyancy and minimizes back stress for a more comfortable dive. Often divers find their legs floating upwards, and find it difficult to maintain buoyancy because of this. Ankle weights help solve trip problems. Divers should ensure that their ankle weights  should fit snugly (not tightly) around the leg and have a one hand easy release buckle.

* Pictured above: Durward Ankle Weights available at Leisurepro.com

Bailout bottles are a subject that Scuba divers have rather strong opinions about, and constantly debate the benefits of a bailout bottle over a pony tank and vice-versa. Bailout bottles provide a diver a redundant air supply that will enable an emergency ascent from a depth in case of a problem or shortage of air in the primary air tank. A Bailout bottle can be used by overhead environment divers, wreck divers and recreational divers alike, and provide a compact source of air for emergencies.

Bailout bottle systems are found in two types:

• Integrated first and second stage regulator into the bottle.
• Stand alone tank with a standard first stage and second stage regulator.

H2Odyssey Extra Air Source 3
The H2Odyssey Extra Air Source 3 is an integrated first and second stage regulator system that fits onto a bailout tank of varying capacity. The First-Stage Regulator (RGV3) which is a balanced diaphragm environmentally sealed unit made from forged brass,  threads directly into the neck of a cylinder eliminating the need or bulk of a cylinder valve, it also gives you the latitude of selecting the size of cylinder to be utilized. Second-Stage Regulator is a bright yellow covered dependable simple down-stream demand valve design which connects via a vertical/ horizontal swivel. Available at Leisurepro.com at a competitive price of $352.50, the EAS3 is a valuable addition to a divers Scuba gear.

The H2Odyssey EAS3 can be purchased in a kit containing a 6 cubic foot tank that measures approx 3 inches in diameter and 12 inches in height. This will give your enough air to get you from 132 feet all the way to the surface

H2Odyssey Extra Air Source 2
The H2Odyssey EAS2 which retails at Liesurepro.com for approximately $269.25 is an emergency air source system that features a (RG2V) dependable balanced piston first stage unlike the EAS3 which uses a diaphragm first stage. Similar to the EAS3, The First-Stage Regulator threads directly into the neck of a cylinder eliminating the need or bulk of a cylinder valve, it also gives you the latitude of selecting the size of cylinder to be utilized.

The Extra Air Source 2 Kit also available at LeisurePro, includes the following:

• H2Odyssey Extra Air Source Balanced 1st Stage, with Station Kit
• 6 cu.ft Tank
• Pressure Gauge
• EAS Bag

Also available is the GPD H2Odyssey Quick Release EAS Bag for 6 cu ft Tank for $7.99 which allows mounting of the bailout bottle onto your main tank or BCD for easy access.

Needless to say Scuba diving masks are an integral piece of dive gear and can greatly influence the comfort of a dive. Much needed to keep the stinging salt water out of your eyes, Scuba masks make your view of coral, fish, sea mammals and other life that much more clearer. Dive masks come in an endless choice of style and color and choosing the right fit and type is crucial. Afterall, nothing can ruin a dive faster than mask squeeze or constantly having to clear your mask that keeps flooding.

Here’s all you need to know about dive masks-

Types of Scuba Masks:

Single Lens/ Single Window Masks
This type of mask uses a single pane lens across both sides of the mask. There is no physical separation of the lenses and although you can’t really see much between your eyes, it allows you to pick up movement there instead of a blind spot.

Double Window Mask
As the name indicates, double window masks use two lens panes separated into two sides in the middle, just above the nose bridge. It’s not a major disadvantage as compared to a single window mask, as your line of sight usually doesn’t extend to this area.

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Three Window Masks
Three window masks use a single pane lens across the front of the dive mask and replace have box like side windows on either side which allow a wider range of vision on the sides than regular masks.

Dive Masks with Purge
These types of masks have a purge valve on the bottom of the nose, allowing divers to clear the mask by simply exhaling into the mask while the water escapes through the one way valve. While the purge is placed for simplicity of mask clearing two fairly common complaints with this type of mask seems to be problems equalizing and leaks at depths. At the same time many divers have no complaints and love having the purge feature in their mask.

Full Face Scuba Mask
These scuba diving masks cover the divers whole face. Water is sealed out and a mouthpiece is built into the mask allowing the diver to breathe. Full face masks aren’t very common in recreational diving unless diving in very cold waters. In the case of cold water diving full face masks are used along with hoods so that the divers skin or face doesn’t come into contact with the cold water at all.

What to consider while choosing a Scuba mask
After selecting a style from the above types according to preference, it’s very important to look at the silicon skirting around the mask. The skirting and shape of the mask must fit your face well to provide you with a comfortable fit. Also the quality of the silicon should be good. Higher quality silicon is usually found in the more expensive models and will feel softer and more flexible than poorer grade silicon.

Another important consideration to make while picking out a dive mask is the nose pocket. Different types of masks have different shaped nose pockets. Check that your nose fits comfortably in the pocket without touching your nose. This will help protect and cushion your nose as well as have necessary air pockets that’ll help equalizing and purging water out in case any gets in.

Lastly the strap should be off good quality and fit your head comfortably. Many straps are made of rubber or silicon and come in a single or double strap option. The advantage of the double strap is that you can position the top strap on the upper part of your head and the bottom strap on the lower part of your head to offer extra stability and comfort. You can also opt for a soft strap cover to protect your hair from getting entangled in the strap.

Take these points into consideration if your in the market for your first or a new scuba mask and it’ll pay off in comfortable, leak free dives. Happy Diving!!

* Photo credits: photo byneilbetter on flickr

**Products pictured above- Tusa Concero One Window Mask, Mares X-Vision MID LiquidSkin Two Window Mask, Scubapro Cool VU 1/3 Window Mask, XS Scuba M-Line Mask P 1, Scubapro Full Face Mask. All available at LeisurePro.com

Conventional SCUBA diving uses an open circuit breathing apparatus, which means that the air we inhale into our lungs from the tank is dispelled through the regulator in our mouth into the water as we exhale. The problem with open circuit breathing is that it wastes precious gas. Out of the air we fill into our scuba tanks, 80% of it is Nitrogen and other gases, and only 20% of the air is Oxygen. Out of that 20% of Oxygen in our dive tanks, our lungs only absorb a quarter of the Oxygen contained in the air for each lungful we take, which means divers exhale 3/4^ths of the total oxygen available to them each dive.  This means despite carrying all that air in our tanks, we are only really consuming a tiny fraction approximately 5% of the total air (oxygen) and exhaling everything else.

A Rebreather also known as a Closed Circuit Breathing Apparatus or CCUBA or a CCR (Closed Circuit Rebreather), allows a diver to breathe the exhaled air, again and again while constantly removing the CO2 while replenishing Oxygen into the system as necessary.  Oxygen or a Gas Mix, is fed electronically or using a demand valve into a closed circuit system. The air goes into the Diver’s lungs and the Carbon Dioxide rich air is breathed out into a separate one -way-valve path into a counter lung which is a bag that expands and contracts like a lung that stores exhaled air, allowing the air in the loop to remain the same. The air from the counterlung is then pulled into a Carbon Dioxide Scrubber, which is a container filled with a CO2 absorbing Chemical usually sodium hydroxide (Sofnolime). The carbon dioxide (gas) reacts with sodium hydroxide and calcium hydroxide to form calcium carbonate (solid).  The Oxygen or Gas mix that is released from the tank into the loop is controlled by oxygen sensors  that monitor the partial pressure of oxygen in the breathing loop and send this information to a microprocessor that controls the oxygen-delivery system.

Advantages of a Rebreather

- A Longer Bottom Time A Closed Circuit diver doesn’t need to worry about running out of gas they are is limited only by decompression. This too can be minimized by selecting a partial pressure of oxygen which virtually gives the diver limitless bottom times in 60 feet or less of water.

- No Bubbles A  Fully closed circuit breathing apparatus, discharges no bubbles, making it ideal for underwater photographers/videographers  who would otherwise scare away marine life with the constant stream of bubbles. Rebreathers are also used by the Military because of this; they can stealthy move underwater without fear of detection at the surface by the giveaway stream of bubbles.

- Gas Efficiency As the oxygen in the system is re-circulated in the loop, a diver may utilize up to 99% of the Oxygen in the system as opposed to an open circuit system where 20% of the Oxygen is absorbed by the Divers lungs.  This creates gas efficiency, with a tank the size of a regular air tank of oxygen lasting ages longer before needing to be changed, limited only by the scrubber.

- Deep Diving A closed circuit rebreather helps in deep diving as a helium system could be easily added to the circuit to eliminate narcosis. The tanks needed for a deep dive are not as many with a rebreather as needed for an open circuit system, allowing the diver greater mobility.

Are you ready to switch yet? Do keep in mind that everything isn’t all perfect with a rebreather. They are extremely expensive pieces of Scuba diving equipment, and require chemical cartridges changes, and proper maintenance. There is more that can go wrong with the complexity of the rebreather, and the diver must be aware of scrubbers failing or reaching absorption capacity, or Oxygen toxicity if the controllers fail.

*Photo credits: photos by tiswango, amell, on flickr.

You’ve booked those tickets and can almost hear the sound of those waves…you’re next dive trip awaits. Rearing to go, just one task lies ahead of you…packing all that bulky Scuba gear to carry it with you on a flight.

Sounds like a hassle doesn’t it? Well, if you think about the money you’ll be saving on renting diving equipment and not to mention the comfort of diving in your own scuba gear, packing your scuba kit isn’t that much trouble. We’ve got some great tips for packing your gear compact and light so it’s convenient to carry and safe from any damage.

Get a Scuba Gear Bag. Many people try to get away with just a regular duffel bag or simple luggage. Most often you’ll find it very difficult to fit all your gear in those without a struggle and even if you manage, they may not be sturdy enough for the weight or have enough protection to save it from damage, incase it is tossed around after you check it in.

Scuba gear bags are designed to fit all your bulky scuba gear from fins, buoyancy compensators, wetsuits, masks and a lot of other stuff with no problem. Some offer the duffel bag with wheels making them easier to transport around, since all that gear can get heavy. Importantly, since dive  gear bags are designed for exactly that, they are perfect for packing everything in one bag for flying.

Regulators too can fit in your dive gear bag, it is advisable to pack a separate regulator bag and take it as carry-on luggage. Regulator bags are reinforced to protect the delicate regulator mechanism and they accommodate the hoses perfectly to keep them from twisting and possibly cracking. If you do use a regulator bag you can try to fit it in your scuba gear bag, to check it in. Otherwise, wrap your regulators in clothes and carry it with you in your hand baggage to be on the safe side.

Always start with your buoyancy compensator as it takes up the most space. Make sure all the air is let out, fold the sides tightly and pack it in the bottom placing all your other gear on top so it helps with some cushioning. Scuba masks usually come with  hard protective case. They’re quite durable and you don’t have to worry much about them. If you don’t have a case for them, wrap them in your wetsuit or diveskin to protect it from scratches.  Pack all other things you may need like snorkel, slates, flashlights etc, in the nooks and crannies of your gear bag. Then place your fins on top or on either side of the gear bag making sure they won’t bend. Remember to stuff the feet with socks or smaller items to keep their shape. Avoid folding your wetsuit too many times, as this will just make it bulkier. Instead just two folds is good enough for it to lay flat and use it to top of your bag as cushioning.

See, packing for a scuba trip isn’t that hard. One gear bag and a regulator in your carry-on and you’re ready to get on that plane and go! Happy Diving!

*Products pictured above: Blue Reef Cayman Dive Flag Duffle Bag, Get Wet Package, AquaLung Legend Regulator Bag. All available at LeisurePro.com