In cold water diving, the use of a good pair of thick diving gloves is almost a requirement, however when discussing the necessity of gloves for warm water diving, there almost seems to be a large divide in opinions with many divers opposing the need for scuba gloves. In fact there are certain areas or dive sites where the use of scuba gloves is actually prohibited. Cozumel and Bonaire prohibit the wearing of gloves while diving to prevent divers from touching coral and creatures on the reef. Certain dive operators and boat captains also prohibit their divers wearing gloves for the same reasons.

Featured above the Bare Velocity 2mm Tropic Five Finger Glove available at Leisurepro.com

Some divers also argue that not wearing gloves makes for better motivation to perfect your buoyancy, as divers refrain from reaching out and taking the support of rocks, or ledges, and that improves their buoyancy techniques.

While it is true that you are more likely to touch, and pick things up while wearing gloves, there are several compelling reasons to wear gloves even in warm waters. Even in tropical waters, a diver loses heat through his/her extremities, and can get cold hands if underwater for extended periods of time. However the argument in favor of gloves in warm water lies more towards protection rather than warmth. Even though one shouldn’t touch anything while diving, we all know it is inevitable that you may brush against some coral or grab onto a rocky outcrop in current. And with so many razor sharp and poisonous coral and creatures on the reef, like fire coral, sea urchins, and stone fish, it could mean the difference between not getting cut or stung by wearing a pair of protective gloves.

Featured above Blue Reef 5mm kevlar Glove available at Leisurepro.com

Other situations where gloves could be useful are for Wreck diving, where a pair of protective gloves could prevent a diver from getting cut by rusty wreckage. Divers that are prone to allergic reactions to contact with certain kinds of coral and other nasties should also always gloves. Holding onto a descent line in strong current that may have sharp barnacles and other things growing on it, even boat ladders and the sides of boats are often covered in sharp rough barnacles.

While choosing a pair of gloves for warm water diving, you need a pair that will keep your hands warm but more importantly protect your hands while offering sufficient dexterity to perform simple tasks like push the tiny buttons on your underwater camera. Gloves with rubberized palm and finger coatings give a good grip, and protective materials ranging from Kevlar to steel and titanium mesh are available, so make sure you select one that meets your requirements.

Featured above the Camaro Seamless 3mm Glove available at Leisurepro.com

Wearing scuba gloves in warm water conditions is not a ‘newbie’ thing to do, as long as you don’t go around deliberately touching coral and picking up marine creatures, or flailing your arms around, which are. A good pair can offer your hands decent protection while diving and form an essential part of your scuba diving equipment.

Even though most divers will seldom find the need to buy their own Scuba air tank compressor, it often helps to understand the process by which our dive tanks get filled.

A compressor like a pump, essentially increases the pressure of a gas while reducing its volume so that a larger quantity can be carried by diver in a smaller air tank. A Scuba compressor unlike an ordinary compressor needs to perform two tasks; compress air to very high pressures in excess of 3000PSI and secondly filter and purify the air to make it fit for breathing.

Featured above: Max-Air 90 Standard Gas Compressor available at LeisurePro.com

The most common type of scuba air compressors involves staged compression where air is compressed to increasing pressures and cooled after each stage. In very basic terms a compressor works in three stages. Air is sucked in through an air filter into the first stage where a large piston compresses the air down to around 100-140psi. The air leaving the first stage is hot as heat is generated as a byproduct of the compression. This needs to be cooled before it enters the second stage or it would ruin the pump. Hence the air is passed through an inter cooler coil that dissipates the heat before being sucked into the second stage where a piston compresses the air again to around 800 to 1,000 psi. Once again the air is passed through inter coolers and before entering the third stage passes through a moisture removal separator , that allows the moisture from the air to trickle out the bottom and sends only the dehumidified air into the third stage where the air is compressed up to 5000psi. From the third stage the air is once again cooled using the inter cooler and once again passed through a moisture separator or two before being fed into a Scuba tank at 2700-3000Psi using a bleed valve.

Featured above: Max-Air 35 Compressor from LeisurePro.com

As a diver’s life quite literally depends on the quality of breathable air in the scuba tank, air filtration is an integral component of scuba air compressors and ensure clean odorless and moisture free air.  A Scuba Air compressor must remove water/moisture and oil which the moisture separator and desiccant filter handles. Next Carbon Monoxide must be rendered harmless using a catalyst that oxidizes the Carbon Monoxide (CO) in the air, into harmless Carbon Dioxide (CO2). Carbon Dioxide in high concentrations can kill a diver and hence that too must be reduced using Activated Carbon filter cartridges and a molecular sieve. Other Hydrocarbons are also removed when passed through the filter cartridges and molecular sieves that render the air fit for diving.

Now you know why scuba compressors are so expensive. Usually larger compressors used at dive shops pump air into a large tank from which it can be re-distributed to smaller scuba tanks, making the process much quicker. Portable air compressors are perfect for a recreational diver, but can often take time to fill cylinders.

Winter’s here, but that doesn’t mean you have to give up diving and wait for the temperatures to rise. Dry-suit up and dive on! Drysuits are an amazing piece of Scuba diving gear. No more shivers, chattering teeth, skin turning blue and the loss of feeling in your hands and feet on less than tropical dives. Dry suits as the name suggests keep you dry when you’re wearing them except for maybe your head and hands. They enable divers to make more and longer dives than using a wetsuit in temperate waters and not to mention the the option to experience rarer dive sites in cold waters.

Drysuit Styles
All dry suits are full length and cover the entire body unlike wetsuits which come in options of shorties and full length wetsuits. However, drysuits are available in different materials. Neoprene drysuits are made of the same material as wet suits, except they exclude water. Shell dry suits are the more popular versions that consist of two pieces. They are loose fitting suits that provide ‘double protection’ with an insulating layer of air between the two materials. The outer part of a drysuit is a waterproof shell made from materials like neoprene, foam rubber, or a hybrid of both while the second layer is an undergarment, also made of several materials including bunting, open foam ThinsulateTM that provides insulation.

Important Features in a Dry Suit

Watertight zipper: Originally developed by NASA to hold air inside astronaut space suits, dry suits have a these special waterproof zippers to keep drysuits dry. Commonly fitted across the back of the shoulders, drysuit zippers can also be placed diagonally across the front of the torso, on the side, or straight down the middle of the front or back. They’re the most expensive part of a dry suit, but the most important to keep water out.

Wrist/neck seals: Dry suits seal at the wrist and neck to keep water out. Made of neoprene or latex rubber, these need to seals need to fit snugly without cutting of circulation, but keeping water from going in.

Air Exhaust valves: As air forms the key layer of protection between the two shells, dry suits feature valves to release air that balloons out the suit as air in the suit expands on ascent. Some modern dry suits have valves so you can add air as you descend or release it as you come up to accommodates the pressure change. Due to this feature divers need not use a buoyancy compensator (or BCD) and buoyancy control differs from wearing a regular wetsuit.

Tips for Buying a Drysuit

• Unlike a wetsuit, a drysuit should be a little loose fitting on the body so you can wear clothing in it comfortably or undergarments for extra insulation, but not too loose so the air bubble inside plays havoc with your trim and buoyancy. The wrist and neck seals however, have to be snug and tight enough to keep water out without cutting off blood flow.
• Choose your undergarment when choosing your dry suit. That way you can try them both on.
• Look for drysuits with thigh pockets. These are a good thing and provide the best place to store those needed small things that you want with you on your dive. Much easier to reach than the pockets of your BC.
• Some suits feature suspenders which make it much easier to don and wear since they help keep the waist up where it needs to be rather than “baggy-ing” downwards.
• Lastly, make sure the exhaust valve of the suit is in the proper place which is usually between the shoulder and elbow, pointing straight up when you hold your arm level with your shoulder. If it’s not in the right spot, then the air won’t escape adequately as it expands, which could prove dangerous during ascents.

*Products Featured above: Pinnacle 2008 Freedom Drysuit Unisex, Bare CD4 Men’s Pro Drysuit, Bare Nex-Gen Pro Dry Suit Mens Black. All available at LeisurePro.com

Submersible Pressure Gauges or SPG’s essentially measure the amount of remaining air pressure in a Scuba air tank. SPG’s are connected to the high pressure hose in the first stage before the air travels to the pressure-reducing second stage valves. Pressure gauges usually are classified into two kinds   mechanical or digital.

Mechanical SPG’s
Mechanical SPG’s generally use what is known as a Bourdon tube which is a non-liquid pressure measurement device comprised of a curved tube open to external pressure input on one end and is coupled mechanically to an indicating needle on the other end. Air pressure pushes against a diaphragm which in-turn pushes against the oil-filled tube, causing the coiled tube to expand like a filled garden hose. The tube end is attached to a fixed lever that turns the indicating needle which then indicates pressure on a graduated dial. Mechanical SPG’s require a high pressure hose to connect to the first stage. Standard mechanical SPG’s can be an independent gauge  i.e. one dial attached to the high pressure hose, or part of a console, with a compass and a depth gauge as a part of the instrument console.

Featured above: Genesis PG2226 Pressure Gauge available at Leisurepro.com

Mechanical SPG’s are also found in the form of button gauges which are simply circular button shaped gauges not connected to a high pressure hose, but directly to the first stage of the air tank. As button gauges are difficult to read if mounted on a divers primary air-source, they are often used on sideways mounted additional air-sources or on pony-tanks or air bottles.

Featured above: (button gauge) H2Odyssey Pony Pressure Gauge for Spare Air available at Leisurepro.com

Digital SPG’sDigital SPGs use a transducer, an electronic device that converts pressure into voltage. The voltage is then converted into a digital signal that drives a digital readout.

Digital SPG’s can be Hoseless or Dive Computer Integrated. In a Hoseless Digital SPG, the transducer is connected to a wireless transmitter which can be directly connected to the first stage without an SPG hose. The pressure readout display contains a receiver that can be placed into an instrument console. Certain wrist worn dive computers have built in receivers, and come along with the transmitter which can be attached to the first stage. These are known as Dive Computer Integrated Digital SPG’s.

Featured above: Aeris Epic Hoseless Wrist Computer available at LeisurePro.com

So how do you choose your SPG? Digital or Mechanical? Preference varies from diver to diver, each type of SPG has its own Pro’s and Cons. Some divers prefer to use both to get an accurate reading; a mechanical SPG on the high pressure hose and wireless transmission to their dive computers where they can use both. Wireless SPG’s are costly, and depend on a battery source which may fail or be susceptible to extreme temperatures. However they enable the diver to look at one single instrument console or computer for all their information, and streamline the scuba diving equipment as they eliminate the need for a SPG hose.

Choosing Scuba weight belts is more about personal preference than a recommendation, additionally, there are so many kinds of weights to choose from that it is often almost impossible to make an decision if ever you have to purchase weights. The best approach to select a particular type of weight belt is to be able to test them out first preferably in a swimming pool to see which kind you are most comfortable with or in need of.  Try renting out different weight belts and test your buoyancy and trim to see what works best for you. Some of the more common type of weight belts are:

Lead Block Belts
Lead Block Belts are the most common type of weighting for Scuba use, which consists of a two –three inch nylon belt with a quick release buckle onto which lead weights, which may be coated or uncoated lead of varying weights ranging from 2 – 15 pounds can be attached/laced through the loop as per requirement. Lead block belts are also the most inexpensive kind of weight-belt, and is notoriously known for causing discomfort due to the weights digging into the divers hips. However that being said, it is also one of the most commonly found type of weight if you rent scuba equipment from a dive store.

* Pictured above: Sea Pearls Uncoated Lace Thru Style Weights available at Leisurepro.com

Pocket Belts
Pocket weight belts comprise of a regular nylon belt with pockets running along the length of it, into which lead blocks may be added as a cheaper option or neoprene Lead Shot pouches as the more expensive option. The benefit of the pocket weight belt is that it is easy to add and subtract weights to adjust buoyancy after each dive, and the weights don’t dig into the diver’s sides as much making it a more comfortable alternative to the basic lead block belt.

* Pictured above: XS Scuba Weight Belt available at Leisurepro.com

Lead Shot Belts
Lead shot belts consist of a pocket or a pouch into which round lead shot can be filled based on desired weight requirement. The primary benefit of using a lead shot belt is that is much more comfortable to wear on a dive as compared to a block belt. It is said that most divers once they have switched to lead shot, will never switch back. Custom pouches can be purchased either cylindrical or rectangular to suit the divers need.  The problem with the shot belt is that it is difficult to adjust the weight needed for each dive as buoyancy changes over time, and needs supplemental pocket weight blocks to overcome this. Alternatively you can create or purchase smaller shot pouches to add or remove from your main shot belt as desired.

* Pictured above: Aqua Lead Shot Soft Weights available at Leisurepro.com

Brace Systems
Brace Systems comprise of a harness belt that may or may not come with a backplate, onto which quick release weights can be attached onto distributing the weight over a larger area.  Brace systems are ideal for anyone with a back problem as the weight is distributed, and much more comfortable to wear than a hip belt. Brace systems with a steel plate help evenly distribute the weight of the tank as well. In case of an emergency the weight bags/pouches can be released easily.

*Pictured above: OMS One Piece Harness System #BP-166 available at Leisurepro.com

Integrated Weights
Integrated weights are systems built into your BCD. This eliminates a need to carry a separate belt, and most people find them much more comfortable than weight belts while diving. The only downside is that it makes your scuba  BCD unit heavier to move around before and after the dive

V-Weights
V-weights are used by divers that carry twin tanks. It consists of a v-shaped or “toblerone” shaped lump of lead weight that sits between the two cylinders, keeping the weight of the divers lower back. V-weights are comfortable to carry and divers do not need to wear a weight belt. However, V-weights cannot be jettisoned in case of an emergency ascent.

Featured above: Xs-Scuba “V” Weight Pouch #WB550 available at Leisurepro.com

V-Weight Type 2
The second kind of V-weight which is mounted in between the backplate and the diver is sometimes known as a P-weight or Polish Weight. This can be used by divers using a single tank, but require a backplate and harness belt system.

Tail Weights
Tail weights are essentially V-weights that are mounted lower down the twin tanks usually bolted to the bottom plate to give the diver more trim. Tail weights help divers maintain a horizontal position more easily by distributing the weight lower down. More recently, Tail weights have been available in the form of scuba air tank end caps, or lead weight belts that can be attach

Featured above: 7.25″ Tank Boot with 5 LB.Weight available at Leisurepro.com

Ankle Weights
Reduces leg and fin buoyancy and minimizes back stress for a more comfortable dive. Often divers find their legs floating upwards, and find it difficult to maintain buoyancy because of this. Ankle weights help solve trip problems. Divers should ensure that their ankle weights  should fit snugly (not tightly) around the leg and have a one hand easy release buckle.

* Pictured above: Durward Ankle Weights available at Leisurepro.com

Needless to say Scuba diving masks are an integral piece of dive gear and can greatly influence the comfort of a dive. Much needed to keep the stinging salt water out of your eyes, Scuba masks make your view of coral, fish, sea mammals and other life that much more clearer. Dive masks come in an endless choice of style and color and choosing the right fit and type is crucial. Afterall, nothing can ruin a dive faster than mask squeeze or constantly having to clear your mask that keeps flooding.

Here’s all you need to know about dive masks-

Types of Scuba Masks:

Single Lens/ Single Window Masks
This type of mask uses a single pane lens across both sides of the mask. There is no physical separation of the lenses and although you can’t really see much between your eyes, it allows you to pick up movement there instead of a blind spot.

Double Window Mask
As the name indicates, double window masks use two lens panes separated into two sides in the middle, just above the nose bridge. It’s not a major disadvantage as compared to a single window mask, as your line of sight usually doesn’t extend to this area.

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Three Window Masks
Three window masks use a single pane lens across the front of the dive mask and replace have box like side windows on either side which allow a wider range of vision on the sides than regular masks.

Dive Masks with Purge
These types of masks have a purge valve on the bottom of the nose, allowing divers to clear the mask by simply exhaling into the mask while the water escapes through the one way valve. While the purge is placed for simplicity of mask clearing two fairly common complaints with this type of mask seems to be problems equalizing and leaks at depths. At the same time many divers have no complaints and love having the purge feature in their mask.

Full Face Scuba Mask
These scuba diving masks cover the divers whole face. Water is sealed out and a mouthpiece is built into the mask allowing the diver to breathe. Full face masks aren’t very common in recreational diving unless diving in very cold waters. In the case of cold water diving full face masks are used along with hoods so that the divers skin or face doesn’t come into contact with the cold water at all.

What to consider while choosing a Scuba mask
After selecting a style from the above types according to preference, it’s very important to look at the silicon skirting around the mask. The skirting and shape of the mask must fit your face well to provide you with a comfortable fit. Also the quality of the silicon should be good. Higher quality silicon is usually found in the more expensive models and will feel softer and more flexible than poorer grade silicon.

Another important consideration to make while picking out a dive mask is the nose pocket. Different types of masks have different shaped nose pockets. Check that your nose fits comfortably in the pocket without touching your nose. This will help protect and cushion your nose as well as have necessary air pockets that’ll help equalizing and purging water out in case any gets in.

Lastly the strap should be off good quality and fit your head comfortably. Many straps are made of rubber or silicon and come in a single or double strap option. The advantage of the double strap is that you can position the top strap on the upper part of your head and the bottom strap on the lower part of your head to offer extra stability and comfort. You can also opt for a soft strap cover to protect your hair from getting entangled in the strap.

Take these points into consideration if your in the market for your first or a new scuba mask and it’ll pay off in comfortable, leak free dives. Happy Diving!!

* Photo credits: photo byneilbetter on flickr

**Products pictured above- Tusa Concero One Window Mask, Mares X-Vision MID LiquidSkin Two Window Mask, Scubapro Cool VU 1/3 Window Mask, XS Scuba M-Line Mask P 1, Scubapro Full Face Mask. All available at LeisurePro.com

Conventional SCUBA diving uses an open circuit breathing apparatus, which means that the air we inhale into our lungs from the tank is dispelled through the regulator in our mouth into the water as we exhale. The problem with open circuit breathing is that it wastes precious gas. Out of the air we fill into our scuba tanks, 80% of it is Nitrogen and other gases, and only 20% of the air is Oxygen. Out of that 20% of Oxygen in our dive tanks, our lungs only absorb a quarter of the Oxygen contained in the air for each lungful we take, which means divers exhale 3/4^ths of the total oxygen available to them each dive.  This means despite carrying all that air in our tanks, we are only really consuming a tiny fraction approximately 5% of the total air (oxygen) and exhaling everything else.

A Rebreather also known as a Closed Circuit Breathing Apparatus or CCUBA or a CCR (Closed Circuit Rebreather), allows a diver to breathe the exhaled air, again and again while constantly removing the CO2 while replenishing Oxygen into the system as necessary.  Oxygen or a Gas Mix, is fed electronically or using a demand valve into a closed circuit system. The air goes into the Diver’s lungs and the Carbon Dioxide rich air is breathed out into a separate one -way-valve path into a counter lung which is a bag that expands and contracts like a lung that stores exhaled air, allowing the air in the loop to remain the same. The air from the counterlung is then pulled into a Carbon Dioxide Scrubber, which is a container filled with a CO2 absorbing Chemical usually sodium hydroxide (Sofnolime). The carbon dioxide (gas) reacts with sodium hydroxide and calcium hydroxide to form calcium carbonate (solid).  The Oxygen or Gas mix that is released from the tank into the loop is controlled by oxygen sensors  that monitor the partial pressure of oxygen in the breathing loop and send this information to a microprocessor that controls the oxygen-delivery system.

Advantages of a Rebreather

- A Longer Bottom Time A Closed Circuit diver doesn’t need to worry about running out of gas they are is limited only by decompression. This too can be minimized by selecting a partial pressure of oxygen which virtually gives the diver limitless bottom times in 60 feet or less of water.

- No Bubbles A  Fully closed circuit breathing apparatus, discharges no bubbles, making it ideal for underwater photographers/videographers  who would otherwise scare away marine life with the constant stream of bubbles. Rebreathers are also used by the Military because of this; they can stealthy move underwater without fear of detection at the surface by the giveaway stream of bubbles.

- Gas Efficiency As the oxygen in the system is re-circulated in the loop, a diver may utilize up to 99% of the Oxygen in the system as opposed to an open circuit system where 20% of the Oxygen is absorbed by the Divers lungs.  This creates gas efficiency, with a tank the size of a regular air tank of oxygen lasting ages longer before needing to be changed, limited only by the scrubber.

- Deep Diving A closed circuit rebreather helps in deep diving as a helium system could be easily added to the circuit to eliminate narcosis. The tanks needed for a deep dive are not as many with a rebreather as needed for an open circuit system, allowing the diver greater mobility.

Are you ready to switch yet? Do keep in mind that everything isn’t all perfect with a rebreather. They are extremely expensive pieces of Scuba diving equipment, and require chemical cartridges changes, and proper maintenance. There is more that can go wrong with the complexity of the rebreather, and the diver must be aware of scrubbers failing or reaching absorption capacity, or Oxygen toxicity if the controllers fail.

*Photo credits: photos by tiswango, amell, on flickr.

You’ve booked those tickets and can almost hear the sound of those waves…you’re next dive trip awaits. Rearing to go, just one task lies ahead of you…packing all that bulky Scuba gear to carry it with you on a flight.

Sounds like a hassle doesn’t it? Well, if you think about the money you’ll be saving on renting diving equipment and not to mention the comfort of diving in your own scuba gear, packing your scuba kit isn’t that much trouble. We’ve got some great tips for packing your gear compact and light so it’s convenient to carry and safe from any damage.

Get a Scuba Gear Bag. Many people try to get away with just a regular duffel bag or simple luggage. Most often you’ll find it very difficult to fit all your gear in those without a struggle and even if you manage, they may not be sturdy enough for the weight or have enough protection to save it from damage, incase it is tossed around after you check it in.

Scuba gear bags are designed to fit all your bulky scuba gear from fins, buoyancy compensators, wetsuits, masks and a lot of other stuff with no problem. Some offer the duffel bag with wheels making them easier to transport around, since all that gear can get heavy. Importantly, since dive  gear bags are designed for exactly that, they are perfect for packing everything in one bag for flying.

Regulators too can fit in your dive gear bag, it is advisable to pack a separate regulator bag and take it as carry-on luggage. Regulator bags are reinforced to protect the delicate regulator mechanism and they accommodate the hoses perfectly to keep them from twisting and possibly cracking. If you do use a regulator bag you can try to fit it in your scuba gear bag, to check it in. Otherwise, wrap your regulators in clothes and carry it with you in your hand baggage to be on the safe side.

Always start with your buoyancy compensator as it takes up the most space. Make sure all the air is let out, fold the sides tightly and pack it in the bottom placing all your other gear on top so it helps with some cushioning. Scuba masks usually come with  hard protective case. They’re quite durable and you don’t have to worry much about them. If you don’t have a case for them, wrap them in your wetsuit or diveskin to protect it from scratches.  Pack all other things you may need like snorkel, slates, flashlights etc, in the nooks and crannies of your gear bag. Then place your fins on top or on either side of the gear bag making sure they won’t bend. Remember to stuff the feet with socks or smaller items to keep their shape. Avoid folding your wetsuit too many times, as this will just make it bulkier. Instead just two folds is good enough for it to lay flat and use it to top of your bag as cushioning.

See, packing for a scuba trip isn’t that hard. One gear bag and a regulator in your carry-on and you’re ready to get on that plane and go! Happy Diving!

*Products pictured above: Blue Reef Cayman Dive Flag Duffle Bag, Get Wet Package, AquaLung Legend Regulator Bag. All available at LeisurePro.com

Wetsuits are a Scuba diving basics. We think it’s a must-have Scuba essential as we mentioned in the 10 Rules of Buying Scuba Diving Gear post. Picking the right wetsuit to suit your needs right from fit, thickness and style can be a little tricky if you don’t know much about them. Here’s a complete guide to buying your first wetsuit.

Wetsuit Styles
There a several choices of styles, when you go wetsuit shopping. There’s the Full wetsuit also known as the full body wetsuit with sleeves right up to the wrists and legs to the ankles. Needless to say it offers full protection and better warmth as it covers most of your body. Secondly there’s the Shorty. Shorties as the name suggests have short sleeves and end just above the knee. A good choice for warm water diving, many divers prefer shorties because it allows greater flexibility in movement underwater. They’re also a easier to put on and take of than a full length wetsuit.

Another option in style of wetsuits is the Farmer John/Jane which are two piece suits, with a sleeveless full length piece worn with a covering jacket. This style is also available in the shorty form. The question of whether one should wear a shorty wetsuit has been asked and debated constantly by divers and you can read up more of our thoughts on the subject in - To Shorties or not to Shorties?

Wetsuit Thickness
Thickness is probably the most important consideration you’ll have to make when buying a wetsuit. It’s a critical factor in keeping you warm and and toasty during a dive. The thicker the wetsuit the warmer it will keep you. Some wetsuits actually have 2 thicknesses on different parts of the wetsuit. For example a 5/3 mm wetsuit means the thickness would be 5 mm on the torso and 3 mm on the arms and legs.

While there’s no particular guide to which thickness is best in a wetsuit as it differs according to the temperature of the water and the relevant conditions, here’s a rough guide to what water temperatures and suitable wetsuit thicknesses are often recommended. But your preferences can differ depending on your cold threshold.

2 mm: Water temperatures above 85 F
3 mm: Water temperatures between 70-85 F
5 mm: Water temperatures between 60-70 F
6.5 mm: Water temperatures between 50-70 (at these temperatures the use of a drysuit can also be recommended)

Wetsuit Fit
It’s very important that your wetsuit fit perfectly for it to be effective. So trying on wetsuits before you buy any is crucial. It can be frustrating and time consuming as trying them on is not always easy but don’t skip this step or you’ll regret it for sure.

If you haven’t worn a wet suit before, you should know that if you can put it on easily it’s too big for you. Especially since you’ll be wearing your wetsuit when it’s dry on land, a sign of the right fit is, a little struggle, huffing and puffing when you put it on. Scuba diving wetsuits feel snug on you and it will probably feel that your movement are restricted, which is normal.

The wetsuit shouldn’t be too tight so that it cuts of circulation at your wrists and ankle or your can even bend your knees in them. It shouldn’t be loose either cause that will allow water to flow freely through it defeating the purpose completely. There should not be any large gaps in the underarm or crotch area. However, it may probably have a gap at the small of the back, which is ok.

No matter how time consuming it is to try on different wetsuits, it’ll be well worth all your time and effort to have a perfectly fitting wetsuit that keeps you warm during your dives. There’s nothing that can ruin a dive faster than being cold and shivering while you are underwater, so get it right when you buy one the first time.

Mares Trilastic Deluxe 5-4-3mm One Piece Wetsuit, Henderson 3-MM Titanium Hyperstretch Mens Shorty, Henderson 7mm Gold Core Neoprene Men’s Wetsuit all available at LeisurePro.com

Most likely if you’ve gone Scuba Diving a couple of times, you’re hooked and will be planning a lot of your vacations where you can dive some more.  And  sure, when you start off you can get away with just your basic mask, snorkel and fins while renting the rest, but how long do you plan on keeping that  up. Let’s face it diving isn’t a cheap sport and add gear rental charges for every time you dive is not a lot of fun or smart. So, if you’re planning on diving long term, make a commitment to buy your own Scuba gear. It doesn’t have to be an all-or-nothing choice . You can buy gradually, piece by piece working your way to a full Scuba diving kit.

Here are 10 Rules for Buying Dive Gear:

1. Get it right the first time. Look at buying Scuba equipment, as a one-time investment. Buy what you need and good quality gear the first time around. Don’t say, “I’ll start cheap and upgrade later,” because it will end up costing you more money in the long run.

2. Research before you buy. Don’t go in blind when you walk into a store. Read past user reviews, scope out all your options of styles, brands and features, so that ultimately you are ready to make an informed decision. This doesn’t mean not looking around in the store or deviating from what you know.

3. Don’t go strictly on recommendations or what your friend says. People in the diving World often have strong opinions on the brand/ manufacturer of their choice and won’t always be objective when suggesting what’s right for you. From ScubaPro to Oceanic or Mares to Tusa, diver’s play favorites and what’s great to them isn’t necessarily right for you.

4. Try, Try and Try. Try on the gear and sample its features before you buy it. If you’re buying Scuba gear online, make sure the website you purchase from has a long enough window for returns (like LeisurePro’s 60/120 days return policy), incase you’re not fully satisfied with anything about the piece.

5. Only buy the right size. Don’t buy gear that doesn’t fit properly, no matter how much you like it or have your heart set on it. Even if it’s just one size big or one size small, don’t convince yourself you can make it work. Fit is everything when it comes to Scuba equipment. From the right fins, buoyancy compensators to just a simple dive masks, the fit of your equipment underwater can influence things like- air consumption, buoyancy control, maneuverability and just plain comfort and enjoyment of the dive.

6. Purchase your equipment through an authorized dealer for that manufacturer or a reliable store like LeisurePro offering a an equal or better warranty service. Don’t skimp on the warranty or service agreements when it comes to buying equipment.

7. Invest in a dive computer. It will enhance your diving experience allowing you to dive deeper, longer and safer, if used properly. Dive computers are fast becoming a Scuba diving essential which no diver should be diving without.

8. Look for features you need. There’s no need to go overboard with extra features on any piece of equipment, just because it’s offered by the manufacturer. Stick to quality over quantity. While choosing, remember that fancier doesn’t necessarily increase safety or make it better than other pieces with lesser features.

9. Buy a Wetsuit. You will need it, no doubt about it. Trying on wetsuits can be an exhausting and frustrating struggle, but it’s very important to have one that fits perfectly so don’t give up until you find one. If you can put it on easily, it means it’s too big for you. A little struggle while trying it on dry is a sign of a good fitting wetsuit. At the same time it shouldn’t be so tight as to stop circulation at your wrists or ankles is it’s a full wetsuit.

10. Go with your instinct and feel. At the end of the day, no amount of research or recommendations should cloud your own judgment on what feels ‘right’ when you try it on. Shop when you have a lot of time to spare to make a decision and not when you have to rush of to somewhere else.

And lastly (yes, I know I said 10… but here’s one for good measure)- Make good use of the Scuba gear  and equipment you buy. Happy Diving People!!

* Pictured Above- Mares Scuba Package #3