Whether a Snorkel is really necessary for Scuba Diving is a question that has often been debated about in the diving community. While many  are used to wearing a snorkel while diving simply because we were taught to do so early on in our Open Water courses, many find the plastic tube attached to the mask a hindrance.

However, having a snorkel more than a comfort issue – it is a safety issue. A snorkel is considered a piece of safety gear in recreational diving. It makes it easier to breathe on the surface without lifting your head out of the water and to conserve energy when at the surface. This is important because in rough conditions, with your weight belt on and exhausted after a long dive, a diver can breathe using the snorkel and avoid getting lungfuls of water in at every breath. The snorkel can allow you to rest instead of fighting again swells and swim using the snorkel while exiting or while waiting to be picked up by the dive boat, without using the limited air in your scuba tank.

At the same time, once underwater,  a snorkel creates drag, causes masks to leak and is an extra piece of scuba gear, which many divers could live without. There is also the possibility of getting the snorkel entangled especially while diving wrecks or in confined spaces, where it could be considered an entanglement hazard.

Taking into consideration both factors and arguments, a simple solution would be a pocket snorkel. A Pocket Snorkel as the name suggests, is a snorkel compact enough to fit in a BC jacket pocket. It liberates the diver from having an unnecessary object attached to their mask underwater. Yet, at the same time when needed the snorkel is easily accessible and just a zipper away. Here’s a look at some cool pocket snorkels available at LeisurePro.com-

Sherwood Mask Pocket Snorkel Kit Blue

List Price: $55.00 LeisurePro Price: $39.95

Oceanic Pocket Snorkel

List Price: $39.95 LeisurePro Price: $19.95

© Aquaviews - SCUBA Blog, 2011. | Pocket Snorkels- A Solution To The Snorkel Debate is an original article from Aquaviews.net | Be the first to comment!

The Citizen Eco-Drive series has long provided us with stunning quality wrist-watches powered a battery recharged by a solar panel hidden under the watch face. What not many people know is that Citizen has a great selection of specialty wrist watches designed for Scuba Divers in its Eco-Drive series with around 12 different models to choose from. Today we take a closer look at two particular models that have the unique ability to Log Dives as well as tell time.

Citizen JV0030-01E Men’s Eco-Drive Aqualand Strap, Black Dial

Citizen JV0030-01E Men’s Eco-Drive Aqualand
The JV0030 Aqualand Divers watch is an indispensible part of your Scuba Diving equipment for anyone that has purchased one. The Dial features Current Depth Display Digital readout which gauges depth up to 300 feet. The watch Measures Maximum Depth and Duration of Dive and stores the information in its built in Dive Log Memory for up to 20 Dives. The Dive mode of the watch automatically turns on similar to a dive computer when the device senses the user descending underwater.  On completion of your dive the Aqualand will provide you with your surface interval time as well. Water Temperature is also digitally displayed and current and minimum water temperature memory can be recalled after the dive. The Citizen JV0030-01E is also Water Resistant to 666 ft. (200m) and has all the usual bells and whistles of a regular Eco-Drive watch such as a 180-Day Power Reserve, Calendar, 3 Alarms, Travel Time (42 Cities and UTC, 29 time zones), Electro-Luminescene Backlighting, and an Eco-Drive Solar power cell which means you’ll never need to change batteries.

Citizen JP1040-09E Titanium Aqualand Duplex Diving Watch

Citizen JP1040-09E Titanium Aqualand Duplex Diving Watch
The Citizen Aqualand Duplex Diving Watch is rugged, lightweight, accurate, as well as attractive and can easily be used as an everyday watch and turn into a diver’s best friend when underwater.  The watch face is divided into both an analog time keeping face and two digital portions embedded with the lower display provided the user with an underwater Depth Display in feet down to 260 Feet. The upper digital display provides Dive data such as Maximum Depth, Dive Time and Water Temperature. Like the above model the JP1040-09E also features Auto-Start Dive Mode and is Water Resistant to 666 ft. (200m).  A unique feature of this watch is the Rapid Ascent Warning Signal, which makes this watch a great bottom timer back-up for a dive computer. Unlike the JV0030, the Aqualand Duplex can only store 4-Dives in its memory of Important Dive Data. Overall this watch is an all round well constructed timepiece, and a must have for any diving enthusiast.

© Aquaviews - SCUBA Blog, 2010. | Two Citizen Dive Watches with Dive Log Memory is an original article from Aquaviews.net | Be the first to comment!

At first glance this dive computer is simply a stunner to look at. With an elegant and slim form factor more resembling a digital watch than a dive computer, the Suunto D6 is the perfect product combining practical everyday wrist-watch functionality with a full featured dive computer.

featured above the Suunto D6 Wrist Computer available at Leisurepro.com

Weighing just 113g the D6 is made from a solid stainless steel body and is also available in a metallic bracelet version or the standard D6 Elastometer which has a rubber wrist strap.

Suunto D6 is full-decompression wristop dive computer with an integrated digital compass. Its three operating modes, gas-switching functionality, and the Suunto RGBM deep stop algorithm combine to make it one of the most feature-rich and versatile dive computers available. – Suunto.com

The D6 features 3 primary modes, Time, Dive and Memory. In the Time/watch mode, the D6 provides the user with all the basic features of a watch, with daily alarm, calendar, a stopwatch and the option of a second time zone (dual time) which is a handy feature for travelling divers. Certain features of the dive computer such as the compass and temperature readings may be used in watch mode as well.

The Dive Computer mode allows you to dive on both , Air or Nitrox, and also has a gauge mode which turns off the computer and acts as a bottom timer with relevant information. Nitrox mode allows the user to select from 21-100% oxygen concentrations and also features the ability of Gas switching during a dive.  The D6 utilizes the RGBM or Reduced Gradient Bubble Model algorithm developed by Suunto and Bruce R Wienke for determining nitrogen loading for the diver.

The Dive Log or the memory mode of the D6 displays detailed dive profile graphs as well as all the usual dive information, and can be downloaded to a PC using Sunnto’s optional PC Download Kit which can be purchased as an extra. The memory mode allows for up to ~100 hours of diving information to be stored in its memory.

featured above is the Suunto PC Download Kit (USB) for D9, D6 & D4 Computers available at Leisurepro.com

One of the best features of the Sunnto D6 is the integrated digital compass which can be used in both dive modes as well as on land, in the watch mode. The compass prominently displays the cardinal compass directions (N, NE, S, SW etc), as well as provides bearings in a degree readout in the lower corner of the display. The best feature of the compass is the ability to lock on to a bearing, after which the compass will indicate with left or right arrows when you are off course. This is especially useful for underwater navigation and making your way back to the boat.

The main difference between the Suunto D6 and its larger brother the Suunto D9 is that the D9 is wireless air integrated, slightly thicker and has a Titanium case instead of the Stainless Steel of the D6, otherwise features and functionality are the same.

The battery life of the D6 is expected to last 2-3 years depending on use of compass and backlight, however the battery is not user replaceable which means you would need to have the battery shipped or taken to an authorized dealer/service center to have the batteries replaced.

Overall the Suunto D6 is an excellent product and a must buy for anyone looking for a reasonably priced wrist mounted dive computer with all the bells and whistles.

© Aquaviews - SCUBA Blog, 2010. | The Suunto D6 Wrist Computer is an original article from Aquaviews.net | Be the first to comment!

Let’s face it, us women divers know that we aren’t going to look like Sports Illustrated models after a dive, but that doesn’t mean we still can’t look good doing it. When diving, saltwater wreaks havoc on not just our hair but skin too leaving it brittle and dry.

Here’s a look at some scuba accessories that will give you the full princess treatment in true dive diva style!

For the Hair
Your tresses often suffer the most when you dive. The salt residue left on your locks after a dive depletes the hair of it’s natural moisture. Add blowing wind into the equation and the result is split ends and brittle hair that feels like straw. If you’ve got long locks, you may want to try the Hair Glove, a versatile ponytail wrap that utilizes a flexible hook built into the hair glove that clips onto an ordinary ponytail elastic to keep the Hair Glove in place during multiple dives!

An absolute must for every female diver is a mask strap cover to put over the existing mask strap which helps prevent hair tangles drastically. Available in either plain colors or even printed Seascape designs like those pictured here are made of durable neoprene rubber and not only look great, but are extremely comfortable and useful to secure a fit for your mask.

Featured above: (right) Water Sports 4″ Hair Glove and (left) Seascapes Mask Strap Cover available at LeisurePro.com

Protect that Skin!
It’s a given, but I’ll say it anyway- Sunblock, Sun protection, Sunscreen whatever you want to call it you need it! Don’t for a second think you can without. The 3 things you should be looking for, for the ultimate sun protection is something that protects against both UVA and UVB rays, is SPF 35 or more and is waterproof! It would also help if it were light and non greasy and fragrant free which is suitable when you’re diving. Even if it’s waterproof, you’ll need to re-apply after a dive for the best results.

Another way of keeping the sun away or rather your skin protected from it is a wearing a skin guard, also known as a rash guard. For this you can just opt for a regular shirt which will offer protection to the upper half of your body or a full length jumpsuit that offers full protection and can even be used as a thin wetsuit. This special skin guards nowadays are treated with a special UV coating and the Rash Guards offer SPF 200+ protection from the sun’s harmful rays. A great accessory to have not just for scuba diving to wear under wetsuits but even as beach wear, surf wear,workout clothes or just as a regular shirt.

Featured above: (right) Sol Sunguard Altitude SPF40 and Pinnacle Rash Guard Long Sleeve Womens available at LeisurePro.com

Eliminate that Neoprene Stink!
The reason neoprene gets stinky is from bacteria that grows on it when it gets wet. “Sink The Stink” is a solution that you soak your gear in after using, then air dry and it kills the bacteria. No more stinky gear! Stink Guards are the most effective method of odor control in neoprene wetsuits and drysuits.

Featured above: Aqua “Sink The Stink” 4 oz. Bottle available at LeisurePro.com

*Photo credits: picture by Firestoned on flickr

© Aquaviews - SCUBA Blog, 2010. | Scuba Accessories For The Diving Divas is an original article from Aquaviews.net | Be the first to comment!

In cold water diving, the use of a good pair of thick diving gloves is almost a requirement, however when discussing the necessity of gloves for warm water diving, there almost seems to be a large divide in opinions with many divers opposing the need for scuba gloves. In fact there are certain areas or dive sites where the use of scuba gloves is actually prohibited. Cozumel and Bonaire prohibit the wearing of gloves while diving to prevent divers from touching coral and creatures on the reef. Certain dive operators and boat captains also prohibit their divers wearing gloves for the same reasons.

Featured above the Bare Velocity 2mm Tropic Five Finger Glove available at Leisurepro.com

Some divers also argue that not wearing gloves makes for better motivation to perfect your buoyancy, as divers refrain from reaching out and taking the support of rocks, or ledges, and that improves their buoyancy techniques.

While it is true that you are more likely to touch, and pick things up while wearing gloves, there are several compelling reasons to wear gloves even in warm waters. Even in tropical waters, a diver loses heat through his/her extremities, and can get cold hands if underwater for extended periods of time. However the argument in favor of gloves in warm water lies more towards protection rather than warmth. Even though one shouldn’t touch anything while diving, we all know it is inevitable that you may brush against some coral or grab onto a rocky outcrop in current. And with so many razor sharp and poisonous coral and creatures on the reef, like fire coral, sea urchins, and stone fish, it could mean the difference between not getting cut or stung by wearing a pair of protective gloves.

Featured above Blue Reef 5mm kevlar Glove available at Leisurepro.com

Other situations where gloves could be useful are for Wreck diving, where a pair of protective gloves could prevent a diver from getting cut by rusty wreckage. Divers that are prone to allergic reactions to contact with certain kinds of coral and other nasties should also always gloves. Holding onto a descent line in strong current that may have sharp barnacles and other things growing on it, even boat ladders and the sides of boats are often covered in sharp rough barnacles.

While choosing a pair of gloves for warm water diving, you need a pair that will keep your hands warm but more importantly protect your hands while offering sufficient dexterity to perform simple tasks like push the tiny buttons on your underwater camera. Gloves with rubberized palm and finger coatings give a good grip, and protective materials ranging from Kevlar to steel and titanium mesh are available, so make sure you select one that meets your requirements.

Featured above the Camaro Seamless 3mm Glove available at Leisurepro.com

Wearing scuba gloves in warm water conditions is not a ‘newbie’ thing to do, as long as you don’t go around deliberately touching coral and picking up marine creatures, or flailing your arms around, which are. A good pair can offer your hands decent protection while diving and form an essential part of your scuba diving equipment.

© Aquaviews - SCUBA Blog, 2010. | Wearing Scuba Gloves in Warm Water is an original article from Aquaviews.net | Be the first to comment!

Even though most divers will seldom find the need to buy their own Scuba air tank compressor, it often helps to understand the process by which our dive tanks get filled.

A compressor like a pump, essentially increases the pressure of a gas while reducing its volume so that a larger quantity can be carried by diver in a smaller air tank. A Scuba compressor unlike an ordinary compressor needs to perform two tasks; compress air to very high pressures in excess of 3000PSI and secondly filter and purify the air to make it fit for breathing.

Featured above: Max-Air 90 Standard Gas Compressor available at LeisurePro.com

The most common type of scuba air compressors involves staged compression where air is compressed to increasing pressures and cooled after each stage. In very basic terms a compressor works in three stages. Air is sucked in through an air filter into the first stage where a large piston compresses the air down to around 100-140psi. The air leaving the first stage is hot as heat is generated as a byproduct of the compression. This needs to be cooled before it enters the second stage or it would ruin the pump. Hence the air is passed through an inter cooler coil that dissipates the heat before being sucked into the second stage where a piston compresses the air again to around 800 to 1,000 psi. Once again the air is passed through inter coolers and before entering the third stage passes through a moisture removal separator , that allows the moisture from the air to trickle out the bottom and sends only the dehumidified air into the third stage where the air is compressed up to 5000psi. From the third stage the air is once again cooled using the inter cooler and once again passed through a moisture separator or two before being fed into a Scuba tank at 2700-3000Psi using a bleed valve.

Featured above: Max-Air 35 Compressor from LeisurePro.com

As a diver’s life quite literally depends on the quality of breathable air in the scuba tank, air filtration is an integral component of scuba air compressors and ensure clean odorless and moisture free air.  A Scuba Air compressor must remove water/moisture and oil which the moisture separator and desiccant filter handles. Next Carbon Monoxide must be rendered harmless using a catalyst that oxidizes the Carbon Monoxide (CO) in the air, into harmless Carbon Dioxide (CO2). Carbon Dioxide in high concentrations can kill a diver and hence that too must be reduced using Activated Carbon filter cartridges and a molecular sieve. Other Hydrocarbons are also removed when passed through the filter cartridges and molecular sieves that render the air fit for diving.

Now you know why scuba compressors are so expensive. Usually larger compressors used at dive shops pump air into a large tank from which it can be re-distributed to smaller scuba tanks, making the process much quicker. Portable air compressors are perfect for a recreational diver, but can often take time to fill cylinders.

© Aquaviews - SCUBA Blog, 2009. | Scuba Air Compressors Explained is an original article from Aquaviews.net | Be the first to comment!

Winter’s here, but that doesn’t mean you have to give up diving and wait for the temperatures to rise. Dry-suit up and dive on! Drysuits are an amazing piece of Scuba diving gear. No more shivers, chattering teeth, skin turning blue and the loss of feeling in your hands and feet on less than tropical dives. Dry suits as the name suggests keep you dry when you’re wearing them except for maybe your head and hands. They enable divers to make more and longer dives than using a wetsuit in temperate waters and not to mention the the option to experience rarer dive sites in cold waters.

Drysuit Styles
All dry suits are full length and cover the entire body unlike wetsuits which come in options of shorties and full length wetsuits. However, drysuits are available in different materials. Neoprene drysuits are made of the same material as wet suits, except they exclude water. Shell dry suits are the more popular versions that consist of two pieces. They are loose fitting suits that provide ‘double protection’ with an insulating layer of air between the two materials. The outer part of a drysuit is a waterproof shell made from materials like neoprene, foam rubber, or a hybrid of both while the second layer is an undergarment, also made of several materials including bunting, open foam ThinsulateTM that provides insulation.

Important Features in a Dry Suit

Watertight zipper: Originally developed by NASA to hold air inside astronaut space suits, dry suits have a these special waterproof zippers to keep drysuits dry. Commonly fitted across the back of the shoulders, drysuit zippers can also be placed diagonally across the front of the torso, on the side, or straight down the middle of the front or back. They’re the most expensive part of a dry suit, but the most important to keep water out.

Wrist/neck seals: Dry suits seal at the wrist and neck to keep water out. Made of neoprene or latex rubber, these need to seals need to fit snugly without cutting of circulation, but keeping water from going in.

Air Exhaust valves: As air forms the key layer of protection between the two shells, dry suits feature valves to release air that balloons out the suit as air in the suit expands on ascent. Some modern dry suits have valves so you can add air as you descend or release it as you come up to accommodates the pressure change. Due to this feature divers need not use a buoyancy compensator (or BCD) and buoyancy control differs from wearing a regular wetsuit.

Tips for Buying a Drysuit

• Unlike a wetsuit, a drysuit should be a little loose fitting on the body so you can wear clothing in it comfortably or undergarments for extra insulation, but not too loose so the air bubble inside plays havoc with your trim and buoyancy. The wrist and neck seals however, have to be snug and tight enough to keep water out without cutting off blood flow.
• Choose your undergarment when choosing your dry suit. That way you can try them both on.
• Look for drysuits with thigh pockets. These are a good thing and provide the best place to store those needed small things that you want with you on your dive. Much easier to reach than the pockets of your BC.
• Some suits feature suspenders which make it much easier to don and wear since they help keep the waist up where it needs to be rather than “baggy-ing” downwards.
• Lastly, make sure the exhaust valve of the suit is in the proper place which is usually between the shoulder and elbow, pointing straight up when you hold your arm level with your shoulder. If it’s not in the right spot, then the air won’t escape adequately as it expands, which could prove dangerous during ascents.

*Products Featured above: Pinnacle 2008 Freedom Drysuit Unisex, Bare CD4 Men’s Pro Drysuit, Bare Nex-Gen Pro Dry Suit Mens Black. All available at LeisurePro.com

© Aquaviews - SCUBA Blog, 2009. | Scuba Gear: A Complete DrySuit Buying Guide is an original article from Aquaviews.net | One comment

Submersible Pressure Gauges or SPG’s essentially measure the amount of remaining air pressure in a Scuba air tank. SPG’s are connected to the high pressure hose in the first stage before the air travels to the pressure-reducing second stage valves. Pressure gauges usually are classified into two kinds   mechanical or digital.

Mechanical SPG’s
Mechanical SPG’s generally use what is known as a Bourdon tube which is a non-liquid pressure measurement device comprised of a curved tube open to external pressure input on one end and is coupled mechanically to an indicating needle on the other end. Air pressure pushes against a diaphragm which in-turn pushes against the oil-filled tube, causing the coiled tube to expand like a filled garden hose. The tube end is attached to a fixed lever that turns the indicating needle which then indicates pressure on a graduated dial. Mechanical SPG’s require a high pressure hose to connect to the first stage. Standard mechanical SPG’s can be an independent gauge  i.e. one dial attached to the high pressure hose, or part of a console, with a compass and a depth gauge as a part of the instrument console.

Featured above: Genesis PG2226 Pressure Gauge available at Leisurepro.com

Mechanical SPG’s are also found in the form of button gauges which are simply circular button shaped gauges not connected to a high pressure hose, but directly to the first stage of the air tank. As button gauges are difficult to read if mounted on a divers primary air-source, they are often used on sideways mounted additional air-sources or on pony-tanks or air bottles.

Featured above: (button gauge) H2Odyssey Pony Pressure Gauge for Spare Air available at Leisurepro.com

Digital SPG’sDigital SPGs use a transducer, an electronic device that converts pressure into voltage. The voltage is then converted into a digital signal that drives a digital readout.

Digital SPG’s can be Hoseless or Dive Computer Integrated. In a Hoseless Digital SPG, the transducer is connected to a wireless transmitter which can be directly connected to the first stage without an SPG hose. The pressure readout display contains a receiver that can be placed into an instrument console. Certain wrist worn dive computers have built in receivers, and come along with the transmitter which can be attached to the first stage. These are known as Dive Computer Integrated Digital SPG’s.

Featured above: Aeris Epic Hoseless Wrist Computer available at LeisurePro.com

So how do you choose your SPG? Digital or Mechanical? Preference varies from diver to diver, each type of SPG has its own Pro’s and Cons. Some divers prefer to use both to get an accurate reading; a mechanical SPG on the high pressure hose and wireless transmission to their dive computers where they can use both. Wireless SPG’s are costly, and depend on a battery source which may fail or be susceptible to extreme temperatures. However they enable the diver to look at one single instrument console or computer for all their information, and streamline the scuba diving equipment as they eliminate the need for a SPG hose.

© Aquaviews - SCUBA Blog, 2009. | Understanding Submersible Pressure Gauges is an original article from Aquaviews.net | Be the first to comment!

Choosing Scuba weight belts is more about personal preference than a recommendation, additionally, there are so many kinds of weights to choose from that it is often almost impossible to make an decision if ever you have to purchase weights. The best approach to select a particular type of weight belt is to be able to test them out first preferably in a swimming pool to see which kind you are most comfortable with or in need of.  Try renting out different weight belts and test your buoyancy and trim to see what works best for you. Some of the more common type of weight belts are:

Lead Block Belts
Lead Block Belts are the most common type of weighting for Scuba use, which consists of a two –three inch nylon belt with a quick release buckle onto which lead weights, which may be coated or uncoated lead of varying weights ranging from 2 – 15 pounds can be attached/laced through the loop as per requirement. Lead block belts are also the most inexpensive kind of weight-belt, and is notoriously known for causing discomfort due to the weights digging into the divers hips. However that being said, it is also one of the most commonly found type of weight if you rent scuba equipment from a dive store.

* Pictured above: Sea Pearls Uncoated Lace Thru Style Weights available at Leisurepro.com

Pocket Belts
Pocket weight belts comprise of a regular nylon belt with pockets running along the length of it, into which lead blocks may be added as a cheaper option or neoprene Lead Shot pouches as the more expensive option. The benefit of the pocket weight belt is that it is easy to add and subtract weights to adjust buoyancy after each dive, and the weights don’t dig into the diver’s sides as much making it a more comfortable alternative to the basic lead block belt.

* Pictured above: XS Scuba Weight Belt available at Leisurepro.com

Lead Shot Belts
Lead shot belts consist of a pocket or a pouch into which round lead shot can be filled based on desired weight requirement. The primary benefit of using a lead shot belt is that is much more comfortable to wear on a dive as compared to a block belt. It is said that most divers once they have switched to lead shot, will never switch back. Custom pouches can be purchased either cylindrical or rectangular to suit the divers need.  The problem with the shot belt is that it is difficult to adjust the weight needed for each dive as buoyancy changes over time, and needs supplemental pocket weight blocks to overcome this. Alternatively you can create or purchase smaller shot pouches to add or remove from your main shot belt as desired.

* Pictured above: Aqua Lead Shot Soft Weights available at Leisurepro.com

Brace Systems
Brace Systems comprise of a harness belt that may or may not come with a backplate, onto which quick release weights can be attached onto distributing the weight over a larger area.  Brace systems are ideal for anyone with a back problem as the weight is distributed, and much more comfortable to wear than a hip belt. Brace systems with a steel plate help evenly distribute the weight of the tank as well. In case of an emergency the weight bags/pouches can be released easily.

*Pictured above: OMS One Piece Harness System #BP-166 available at Leisurepro.com

Integrated Weights
Integrated weights are systems built into your BCD. This eliminates a need to carry a separate belt, and most people find them much more comfortable than weight belts while diving. The only downside is that it makes your scuba  BCD unit heavier to move around before and after the dive

V-Weights
V-weights are used by divers that carry twin tanks. It consists of a v-shaped or “toblerone” shaped lump of lead weight that sits between the two cylinders, keeping the weight of the divers lower back. V-weights are comfortable to carry and divers do not need to wear a weight belt. However, V-weights cannot be jettisoned in case of an emergency ascent.

Featured above: Xs-Scuba “V” Weight Pouch #WB550 available at Leisurepro.com

V-Weight Type 2
The second kind of V-weight which is mounted in between the backplate and the diver is sometimes known as a P-weight or Polish Weight. This can be used by divers using a single tank, but require a backplate and harness belt system.

Tail Weights
Tail weights are essentially V-weights that are mounted lower down the twin tanks usually bolted to the bottom plate to give the diver more trim. Tail weights help divers maintain a horizontal position more easily by distributing the weight lower down. More recently, Tail weights have been available in the form of scuba air tank end caps, or lead weight belts that can be attach

Featured above: 7.25″ Tank Boot with 5 LB.Weight available at Leisurepro.com

Ankle Weights
Reduces leg and fin buoyancy and minimizes back stress for a more comfortable dive. Often divers find their legs floating upwards, and find it difficult to maintain buoyancy because of this. Ankle weights help solve trip problems. Divers should ensure that their ankle weights  should fit snugly (not tightly) around the leg and have a one hand easy release buckle.

* Pictured above: Durward Ankle Weights available at Leisurepro.com

© Aquaviews - SCUBA Blog, 2009. | Types of Scuba Diving Weight Belts is an original article from Aquaviews.net | Be the first to comment!

Needless to say Scuba diving masks are an integral piece of dive gear and can greatly influence the comfort of a dive. Much needed to keep the stinging salt water out of your eyes, Scuba masks make your view of coral, fish, sea mammals and other life that much more clearer. Dive masks come in an endless choice of style and color and choosing the right fit and type is crucial. Afterall, nothing can ruin a dive faster than mask squeeze or constantly having to clear your mask that keeps flooding.

Here’s all you need to know about dive masks-

Types of Scuba Masks:

Single Lens/ Single Window Masks
This type of mask uses a single pane lens across both sides of the mask. There is no physical separation of the lenses and although you can’t really see much between your eyes, it allows you to pick up movement there instead of a blind spot.

Double Window Mask
As the name indicates, double window masks use two lens panes separated into two sides in the middle, just above the nose bridge. It’s not a major disadvantage as compared to a single window mask, as your line of sight usually doesn’t extend to this area.

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Three Window Masks
Three window masks use a single pane lens across the front of the dive mask and replace have box like side windows on either side which allow a wider range of vision on the sides than regular masks.

Dive Masks with Purge
These types of masks have a purge valve on the bottom of the nose, allowing divers to clear the mask by simply exhaling into the mask while the water escapes through the one way valve. While the purge is placed for simplicity of mask clearing two fairly common complaints with this type of mask seems to be problems equalizing and leaks at depths. At the same time many divers have no complaints and love having the purge feature in their mask.

Full Face Scuba Mask
These scuba diving masks cover the divers whole face. Water is sealed out and a mouthpiece is built into the mask allowing the diver to breathe. Full face masks aren’t very common in recreational diving unless diving in very cold waters. In the case of cold water diving full face masks are used along with hoods so that the divers skin or face doesn’t come into contact with the cold water at all.

What to consider while choosing a Scuba mask
After selecting a style from the above types according to preference, it’s very important to look at the silicon skirting around the mask. The skirting and shape of the mask must fit your face well to provide you with a comfortable fit. Also the quality of the silicon should be good. Higher quality silicon is usually found in the more expensive models and will feel softer and more flexible than poorer grade silicon.

Another important consideration to make while picking out a dive mask is the nose pocket. Different types of masks have different shaped nose pockets. Check that your nose fits comfortably in the pocket without touching your nose. This will help protect and cushion your nose as well as have necessary air pockets that’ll help equalizing and purging water out in case any gets in.

Lastly the strap should be off good quality and fit your head comfortably. Many straps are made of rubber or silicon and come in a single or double strap option. The advantage of the double strap is that you can position the top strap on the upper part of your head and the bottom strap on the lower part of your head to offer extra stability and comfort. You can also opt for a soft strap cover to protect your hair from getting entangled in the strap.

Take these points into consideration if your in the market for your first or a new scuba mask and it’ll pay off in comfortable, leak free dives. Happy Diving!!

* Photo credits: photo byneilbetter on flickr

**Products pictured above- Tusa Concero One Window Mask, Mares X-Vision MID LiquidSkin Two Window Mask, Scubapro Cool VU 1/3 Window Mask, XS Scuba M-Line Mask P 1, Scubapro Full Face Mask. All available at LeisurePro.com

© Aquaviews - SCUBA Blog, 2009. | Scuba Masks: Your Window to the Underwater World is an original article from Aquaviews.net | Be the first to comment!