Here is a list we’ve put together with 5 of our must-have BCD Clip-on accessories:

Surface Marker Buoy (SMB)
The SMB or Safety Sausage we believe is the quintessential piece of Safety equipment that every diver should have, especially in open water boat dives, where waves, currents and conditions can make it difficult for the boat to spot a surfaced diver. While some prefer to have this clipped on to their BCD, where it is easily accessible, others prefer to have this often larger item tucked away inside their BCD pockets; either way it is one item we would never dive without.

Blue Reef Diver Below Deluxe 6′ Signal Tube

Storm Whistle
A good quality emergency or storm whistle is another standard clip on attachment to our ideal BCD set up. Grab the attention of your boat or rescuers with a crisp and clear audible alarm. Storm whistles are also designed for use in all weather conditions and underwater as well, making it a great emergency item that costs nothing and takes up hardly any room on your BCD. We recommend swapping the standard BCD whistle with a good quality louder storm whistle like the one we have featured below available at LeisurePro.com.

Storm Whistle

Pointer Stick with Rattle
These handy anti-corrosive steel pointer rods are multi-purpose, making them our Swiss-army knife of the Scuba world and puts them on our list of must-have BCD attachments. Apart from pointing out marine life, the pointer stick can be used as a tank banger to get the attention of your buddies which eliminates the need for carrying a separate noise maker or rattle. These pointer sticks with a rattle attached to the handle also help get your buddies attention easily. The stick can be used to minimize your contact with coral and avoid touching things with your hands, and also to get yourself purchase in case of strong currents. Metal sticks have been known to repel sharks and other fish when touched by it as it is said to disrupt their magnetic senses.

Xs Scuba Rattle Pointer

Dive light or Torch
Even when not night diving, a secondary or compact dive light is a must on our list of BCD Clip-on gear. Whether peering under a rock to spot shrimp or lobster, or grabbing the attention of your buddy underwater or boatman on the surface, the dive light is another multipurpose must-have dive accessory.

Intova Nova Torch 4.7 watt LED #IFL660

Line Cutter/Dive Knife
A line cutter or a small dive knife equipped with a line cutter is probably the final item that makes our BCD Clip on list. A Dive Knife is not a weapon but more of a general tool and safety device. Can substitute a tank banger, can be useful to have on shore as well as in case you get caught in fishing line underwater. Don’t get a dive knife that doesn’t have a line cutter included in its design.

XS Scuba Beta Titanium Knife Blunt Tip

5 Must Have BCD Clip-On Scuba Diving Accessories was written by Nevin for Aquaviews - SCUBA Blog - Bringing You The Other 70% Of Our World

Featured above is the Sealife SL700 DC 1200 12MP Digital Camera

However, shopping for an underwater camera is just as hard as shopping for a regular camera for use above water with the different types, brands and features they offer. Essentially you have two choices in digital underwater photography- Underwater digital cameras or a regular digital camera with an underwater housing.

Digital Camera + Underwater Housing
Housed cameras are a good option for those who already have a compact point and shoot camera or a DSLR camera they want to use. You can buy an underwater housing specifically for your model of camera.

Underwater housings normally consists of a firm box that made of either aluminum or popularly polycarbonate plastic. Some housings are also made of a thick plastic bag with a glass port where the camera lens is placed. When considering an underwater housing make sure to pay attention to the maximum depth specified by the manufacturer as they do differ. Usually the plastic bag type housings are only guaranteed to be submersible to low depths of 15 feet (5 meters) or so. This is okay if you’re snorkeling or swimming but won’t be recommended for scuba diving. The hard case polycarbonate housings are designed for deeper use and have been tested for water pressure and such making them submersible to upto 130 feet (40 meters). Pictured above is the Intova IC12 12mp Digital Camera with 180′ Waterproof Housing.

By using separate underwater camera housings you do run the the risk of springing a leak if it’s not sealed properly and the housing floods during a dive. This could potentially damage your camera for good as it’s not waterproof. Waterproof housings for cameras also make the actual camera rather bulky and are not as compact as underwater digital cameras. Another disadvantage, is that housings are designed for specific models of cameras and brands. So if you want to upgrade to a new camera, the smallest change in size or control button position means you have to buy a new housing for it. Pictured here is the Fantasea Line FL-22 Underwater Housing for Nikon Coolpix L22.

Underwater Digital Cameras
If you’re looking to take underwater photos more seriously or dive very often, you may want to consider a camera dedicated to just that. Also known as amphibious cameras or submersible cameras, they are designed for use underwater and offer a variety of features for better clarity in the pictures you take. They are also smaller, much easier to carry, and they transport better than housed cameras. However, they tend to be on the more expensive side, because they are more specialized and compact. Pictured right is Sea & Sea DX-GE5 12.2 Megapixel Compact Digital Waterproof Camera.

With waterproof digital cameras you don’t run the risk of leaks or flooding as you may in housed cameras. These cameras also come with a variety of attachments you can have like, different lenses, strobe arm attachments and so on allowing you more flexibility than buying a third party housing. For anyone who is looking to document their scuba memories of a lifetime, an underwater digital camera is one of the best investments you can make!

Scuba Gear Buying Guide: Underwater Cameras was written by Noreen for Aquaviews - SCUBA Blog - Bringing You The Other 70% Of Our World

Your choice of fins should depend on what type of diving or water activity you wish to use it for as well as the conditions you’re likely to be faced with.

Swimming/Snorkeling Fins: If you’re a swimmer/ snorkeler a simple basic fin design will meet your needs. You need to remember less is more and stick to a shorter blade than if you were scuba diving, as at the surface a longer blade fin will prove to be more of a hindrance than help. The Aqua Sphere Zip Fins pictured right are a good example of a basic swimming fin or snorkeling fin.

Scuba Diving Fins: Scuba diving fins are have the most variations and variety in design. They have longer blades than the swim fins we saw above as you require more propulsion underwater when diving. Efficiency of the fin is a lot more important to divers as the leg strength and power they use to kick effectively, influences the energy spent and in turn air consumption too. Maneuverability and pivots and precise movements underwater are other things diver should look for in a pair of fins. The Mares Avanti Superchannel Full Foot Fins pictured left are an example of scuba fins.

Free Diving Fins: Free diving fins are considerable longer than swimming/snorkeling and scuba diving fins in order to move the diver the greatest distance with the least amount of kicks.The long blades of these type of fins offers more resistance but is designed for more power and speed than maneuverability. The Cressi Gara 3000 LD Fins pictured right are an example of free diving fins.

Open Heel Fins Vs Full Foot Fins/ Close-heeled Fins

Open-heeled fins or half- pocket fins enclose the front portion of your foot and uses a heel strap to secure the fin to your foot. The heel strap on the open-heel pocket fins can be either adjustable or non-adjustable. Open-heel fins or half- pocket fins enclose the front portion of your foot and uses a heel strap to secure the fin to your foot. While this type of fin can be worn barefoot, it is preferable and advisable to wear them over the right size Dive booties (neoprene boots). If you are deep sea diving or planning to dive in cold water, you will want these type of fins that’ll allow you to wear dive boots to provide extra exposure protection from the cold.

Pictured above- (left) Mares Avanti Quattro Open Heel Fins, (right) Aeris Velocity Full Foot Fins.

Also called full-foot pocket fins, the close-heeled fins enclose your entire foot just as a slipper encloses your foot. They are worn barefoot and have an opening at the end for your toes. Generally cheaper than open-heel fins, it’s important to try these fins on and make sure they fit snugly wherein you can still wiggle your toes. Too tight and they can cut circulation and pinch your foot resulting in blisters or chafes. Too loose and they can slip off your foot when you hit the water or kick.

Split fins

The Split fins design is where the fin blade is split in two parts by a lengthwise slit. Split blade fins are more expensive and said to offer slightly better propulsion and agility than the standard fins. However, some divers believe they are less effective than conventional fins in strong currents. These type of fins are a good option for those who tend to have muscle spasms in their legs. The way they are designed with an empty space down the center of the blade causes water propulsion behind the diver. They’re are fine if you are planning on going in a single forward motion the entire time, however they aren’t ideal for those who wish to back track and/or take photographs. The Apollo Bio Fins Pro C-Series pictured right, are the best user rated Split fins in the market today.

To see the Pro’s and Con’s of Paddle Fins Vs Split fins Click Here.

Fins With Channels

Channels help move the water across or through the fin, which allow the diver to move through the water quite rapidly. Channels increase the divers speed because they offer less surface area resistance in the water. Additionally, channels (depending upon their placement) offer extra fin flexibility, which means the fin can bend further and move more water with each kick cycle. See the Mares “Volo Power” Open Heel Fins with channels, pictured left for an example.

As always, while buying SCUBA Fins look for a good fit and features that suit your diving needs. If your dive fins do not feel as if they are an extension of your limbs, it could make for an uncomfortable dive experience.

Scuba Gear Buying Guide: Fins was written by Noreen for Aquaviews - SCUBA Blog - Bringing You The Other 70% Of Our World

Here’s a look at what to consider when buying scuba diving exposure protection for cold water diving-

Drysuits
All dry suits are full length and cover the entire body, but they come in different materials.Neoprene drysuits are made of the same material as wet suits, except they exclude water. The Bare 2010 D-6 Pro Drysuit is an example of a Neoprene drysuit.

Shell drysuits are the more popular versions that consist of two pieces. They are loose fitting suits that provide ‘double protection’ with an insulating layer of air between the two materials. The outer part of this type of drysuit is a waterproof shell made from materials like neoprene, foam rubber, or a hybrid of both while the second layer is an undergarment, also made of several materials including bunting, open foam Thinsulate that provides insulation. Pictured left is the Bare Nex-Gen Pro Womens Dry Suit an example of this type of drysuit.

When buying a drysuit, the fit you should be looking for is not tight like a wetsuit. Instead, a drysuit should be a little loose fitting on the body so you can wear clothing inside it comfortably or undergarments for extra insulation, but not too loose so the air bubble inside plays havoc with your trim and buoyancy. The wrist and neck seals however, have to be snug and tight enough to keep water out without cutting off blood flow. It is best to choose and try on an undergarment when buying your dry suit.

Some suits feature suspenders which make it much easier to don and wear since they help keep the waist up where it needs to be rather than “baggy-ing” downwards. You also might want to consider drysuits with thigh pockets. These are a good feature to have and provide the best place to store those needed small things that you want with you on your dive. Much easier to reach than the pockets of your BC. Lastly, make sure the exhaust valve of the suit is in the proper place which is usually between the shoulder and elbow, pointing straight up when you hold your arm level with your shoulder. If it’s not in the right spot, then the air won’t escape adequately as it expands, which could prove dangerous during ascents. Pictured right is a Pinnacle Merino-Evolution Drysuit Undergarment.

Hoods
It is recommended to wear a hood when cold water diving as well as warm water diving. This is because 60% of a divers body heat escapes through his or her head. So, by keeping the head insulated with a hood, your entire body will remain warmer.

Most dive hoods are made out of neoprene, which is the most effective material, as it traps water between the head and the material. This in turn uses natural heat that gets trapped between the two, to insulate and keeps it from transferring to the open water. Warm/temperate water dive hoods are thinner in thickness (1.5-3mm for example) and don’t have a very as much neck coverage, or a bib as cold water hoods. Take for example the Pinnacle 3mm Beanie Hood pictured left.

Cold water dive hoods, typically have a sizable bib, which can be tucked into the wetsuit at the neck opening. The bib reduces the transfer of water and keeps the diver that much warmer. It also covers more of the divers face (forehead, jaw/chin and cheek areas), leaving less skin exposed to the water. Just like a wetsuit, a dive hood should offer a snug fit; if a hood is too loose, water will freely flow in and out of the hood and the diver will lose a lot of insulation. Some manufacturers include zippers along the back of the hood, which is particularly popular among those who have long hair. Pictured right is the Henderson H2 Titanium 7/5mm Hood.

Gloves
For cold water diving, gloves are a must to keep your hands warm. They don’t however, keep them dry. Just like hoods diving gloves are made of neoprene and the greater the thickness the better thermal insulation it’ll provide. There are 5 finger gloves, 3- fingered mitts and standard mitts. The more skin to skin contact you have, the more warmth you’ll experience. In other words, the standard mitts will be the most effective in keeping your hands warms, then the 3 fingered gloves and lastly the 5 fingered ones. However, in terms of dexterity it’s exactly the opposite.  And dexterity for a diver you needs to handle his scuba gear underwater, it quite important so it must be taken into consideration. Velcro straps around the wrists in gloves too help keeping water out to increase warmth.

Pictured up the Blue Reef 5MM Mens Glove with Velcro Band and the Bare Sport 7mm Three-Finger Mitt

Boots
Dive booties or diving boots serve two purposes- One, they are worn inside open heel fins for a better fit, and secondly they are used to keep your feet warm just like gloves work for the hands. Again, just as in diving gloves, diving boots come in various thicknesses. The thicker the neoprene material the more warmth it offers. Velcro straps at the ankles help reduce the water transfer and thus insulate better than ones without. Some boots offer zippers at the ankle that make the donning and ditching processes easier. The trade off is zippers though, that they then typically invite leaks into the boots.

Picture above: Bare 7mm Coldwater Boots and Tusa Imprex 3MM Dive Slipper

Scuba Gear Buying Guide: Exposure Protection (Cold Water Diving) was written by Noreen for Aquaviews - SCUBA Blog - Bringing You The Other 70% Of Our World

Here’s a closer look at Scuba Diving Exposure Protection and what you need to look for when buying any-

Rash Guard/ Skins
Either on the boat or above water while scuba diving, or when performing any kind of water sport, a rash guard is the best form of UV protection against getting sun burnt. Not exactly ideal for thermal protection but it’s still useful nonetheless. A rash guard (also known as rashie, rash vest or skin) is a versatile garment that serves many purposes and can be worn both as an inner layer or outer garment. Scuba Divers normally wear a rash guard inside of their wetsuits as extended periods in a wetsuit can cause chafing injuries with the skin constantly in friction with the wetsuit. Additionally the extra layer of clothing offers a tiny bit more insulation to the diver underwater by adding an extra layer, especially in the case of a full jumpsuit type skin. Take the Neo Sport by Henderson Lycra Skin Suit pictured right, for example.

While selecting a rash guard, if you want maximum protection from the sun, go for a full sleeve rash guard rather than a short sleeve one. Also, look for fabrics treated with a special UV coating (not all have UV protection), some offer up to SPF 200+ protection from the sun’s harmful rays and are tested and approved. See the Pinnacle Long Sleeve Womens Rash Guard for example.

Lightweight and quick drying rash guards are key to your comfort. They are usually available are available in nylon, lycra, spandex or polyester and some manufacturers even offer antibacterial fabrics as well. A good rash guard is a useful piece to have even if not for diving but for other water sports as while sunscreen is only as effective when you apply it, it leaves room for missed spots. A full sleeved rash guard can give you superior protection from the sun.

Wetsuits
Wetsuits are a Scuba diving basic. We think it’s a must-have Scuba essential as we mentioned in our 10 Rules of Buying Scuba Diving Gear post. For the perfect wetsuit it needs to have the right fit, thickness and style.

There a several choices of styles, when you go wetsuit shopping. There’s the Full wetsuit also known as the full body wetsuit with sleeves right up to the wrists and legs to the ankles. Needless to say it offers full protection and better warmth as it covers most of your body. Take for example the Cressi Castoro 5MM Mens Wetsuit pictured right.

Secondly there’s the Shorty. Shorties as the name suggests have short sleeves and end just above the knee. A good choice for warm water diving, many divers prefer shorties because it allows greater flexibility in movement underwater. They’re also a easier to put on and take of than a full length wetsuit. See the Henderson H2 Titanium Women’s 3mm Shorty pictured left.

Another option in style of wetsuits is the Farmer John/Jane which are two piece suits, with a sleeveless full length piece worn with a covering jacket. This style is also available in the shorty form. The Bare 3mm Women’s Sport Step-In Jacket pictured right is an example of the jacket style.

Thickness is probably the most important consideration you’ll have to make when buying a wetsuit. It’s a critical factor in keeping you warm and and toasty during a dive. The thicker the wetsuit the warmer it will keep you. Some wetsuits actually have 2 thicknesses on different parts of the wetsuit. For example a 5/3 mm wetsuit means the thickness would be 5 mm on the torso and 3 mm on the arms and legs. The Bare 5/4 Velocity Full Men’s Wetsuit pictured is a good example of this type of wetsuit.

Here’s a rough guide to what water temperatures and wetsuit thicknesses are often recommended. But remember, that it does ultimately depend on your cold threshold and personal preferences, there’s no right or wrong.

• 2 mm: Water temperatures above 85 F
• 3 mm: Water temperatures between 70-85 F
• 5 mm: Water temperatures between 60-70 F
• 6.5 mm: Water temperatures between 50-70 (at these temperatures the use of a drysuit can also be recommended)

It’s very important that your wetsuit fit perfectly for it to be effective. So trying on wetsuits before you buy any is crucial. If you can put it on easily it’s too big for you. Especially since you’ll be wearing your wetsuit when it’s dry on land, a sign of the right fit is, a little struggle, huffing and puffing when you put it on. Your Scuba diving wetsuit should feel snug on you and it will probably feel that your movement are restricted, which is normal. There should not be any large gaps in the underarm or crotch area. However, it may probably have a gap at the small of the back, which is ok. At the same time, the wetsuit shouldn’t be too tight so that it cuts off circulation at your wrists and ankle, or restricts movement so much that you can’t even bend your knees in them. Pictured right is the Mares Womens Isotherm Semi-Dry One Piece Wetsuit.

If you intend on diving in colder waters refer to our Scuba Gear Buying Guide on Cold Water Diving Exposure Protection.

Scuba Gear Buying Guide: Exposure Protection (Warm Water Diving) was written by Noreen for Aquaviews - SCUBA Blog - Bringing You The Other 70% Of Our World

Pictured above:Aeris Atmos AI Air Integrated Computer Console with compass & the Oceanic OC1 Air Integrated Hoseless Dive Computer Watch

We here at Aquaviews believe that after buying your own Scuba mask, snorkel and fins, a dive computer should be your next big scuba gear purchase on your list. However, for such a crucial purchase it’s not something you should take lightly. It’s important to take the time to research and know exactly what’s out there, in order to make a good decision on which dive computer is best for you! With all the different types and styles out there, it’s much like picking from a menu of whatever features take your fancy and appeal to you. What you need to look out for is a combination of the functions you need, in a single dive computer, and we’re here to help you with that.

Here’s a look into the different types of dive computers and their features to help you make the choice that fits your needs and even your pocket:

Styles:
There are essentially 2 types or styles of Dive Computers available- Wrist or watch style and console or module dive computers.

Wrist Dive Computers- The more popular choice among recreational divers today, mainly for their convenience, wrist dive computers as the name implies are worn on the wrist by the diver and look like large faced watches. An advantage this style of dive computer has over the console mounted style is that as it’s not connected to your other gear, it’s more versatile to be used with any scuba kit. (Take for example the Cressi Archimede II Wrist Computer pictured right.)

Console Dive Computers- This style of dive computer is a slightly more economical option. It is attached to other Scuba gear via a hose and typically come with a pressure gauge, unlike the most wrist mounted options (excluding air-integrated wrist computers). Advantage of this style is that the it is sometimes easier to read as the display is fairly large. (Pictured right the Oceanic VEO 1.0 Air/Nitrox Dive Computer SWIV Double Gauge Combo)

Dive Computer Features:

Basic Functions: Depth Gauge and Decompression Calculations
A basic and primary feature of all dive computers is the fact that it measures depth. It’s measurement of depth is a lot more accurate than an average analog depth gauge. Other than just that it carefully determines how much time was spent at each depth, all the while calculating decompression times, allowing you to focus more on the diving and the scenery rather than the math of diving. Based on your dive’s duration and depths, a dive computer calculates how many decompression stops you need to make and at what depths. It also calculates the surface interval time you need to spend between dives and also calculates when it is safe to fly after diving- an all important for divers who rely on air travel at the end if their diving vacations.

Advanced Features:
All dive computers, tell depth and do decompression calculations, but now a days they’re doing a lot more! More features on a dive computer don’t necessarily function any better than ones with less and they definitely don’t make your dives any more safer, but they are like icing on the cake and can make life a lot more easier and comfortable.

Read about all the different functions and special features you can choose in a dive computer in Scuba Gear Buying Guides: Dive Computers (Special Features)

Scuba Gear Buying Guides: Dive Computers was written by Noreen for Aquaviews - SCUBA Blog - Bringing You The Other 70% Of Our World

Auto Activate- Some dive computers automatically turn themselves on when submerged underwater at a particular depth. This helps if you are rather forgetful as others require you push a button to start while some will not work under water if they have not been activated on the surface first. Take the Mares Nemo Excel Dive Computer Wrist Watch pictured right for example.

Memory- Dive computers come with different memory storage sizes. What you may want to look for though is one that retains the memory incase the battery has to be changed during a dive day or trip. This way you don’t lose the data during a battery change.

Nitrox Compatible- Nitrox diving is becoming increasingly popular. While all nitrox dive computers can be used to make regular air dives, an air computer must be nitrox programmable in order to be used with a mixed breathing gas as it contains a higher percentage of oxygen than air. Well worth it if you intend on diving nitrox any time in the future or as possibility.
See the Suunto D6 Wrist Computer pictured left for example.

PC Connectivity- Many dive computers come with a way to download the information on it to your PC using an optional interface. This could be a very useful feature to have.

Backlight- Not all dive computers have a backlight or illumination feature that allows you see your reading more clearly in lower light conditions, but a lot do. A backlit display dive computer is a good feature to consider having especially if you do lots of low visibility diving, wreck dives and for cave diving. Take the Oceanic Pro Plus 2.1, Air/Nitrox, Air Integrated Computer pictured right for example.

Navigation - Today, dive computers allow you to supplement or replace your old-fashioned compass with digital displays of your heading. Dive computers with compass features and navigation now don’t even require you to have the instrument perfectly level to function properly. Some high end computers also offer a GPS (Global Positioning System) feature that uses satellites to mark exactly where you are. Extremely useful for those who keep detailed records of their dives for the purposes of search/recovery, treasure hunting, or dive site mapping.

Air Integrated- Air integrated dive computers measure tank pressure and estimates of how long your air supply will last at the current rate of air consumption. These dive computers are available in two types, one that can be attached to the end of a high pressure hose and it replaces the submersible pressure gauge or a high end hoseless air integrated dive computer which consists of wrist or BC mount instrument which acts as a receiver and a transmitter which screws into the high pressure port of the regulator first stage. It uses radio signals to send information about the air supply in your tank to the dive computer which displays this. Hoseless Scuba dive computers are among the most expensive dive computers you can buy.

Buddy Pressure Check- Swim to within 4-6 feet of your buddy and press a button to see his or her tank pressure – how easy could it be? No hand signals or disruptions. The Oceanic Atom 2.0 Air Integrated Hoseless Dive Computer Watch now comes with this swanky new feature!

High Definition -
Yes, now dive computers come in color and High Definition just like flat screen televisions, cell phones, PDAs, notebook computers and the likes. Just makes a dive computer way cooler! See the Mares Icon HD Wrist Dive Computer below

Scuba Gear Buying Guides: Dive Computers (Special Features) was written by Noreen for Aquaviews - SCUBA Blog - Bringing You The Other 70% Of Our World

Side Vented or Front vented?

While not a serious deal breaking decision, there are some models of regulators out in the market that offer second stage exhaled gas venting from the side of the regulator instead of the front which is usually the case. Side vented regulators prevent exhaled bubbles from obstructing your view during ascents and descents offering divers a cleaner view.

Piston or Diaphragm?

The first stage of a regulator may contain either piston or diaphragm mechanisms to regulate the intake of air into the medium pressure chamber and the second stage. The Piston type contains a mechanical piston that sits atop of the air intake valve, and as the diver breathes from the second stage, the piston rises and allows air to enter the medium pressure chamber ready for the diver’s next breath.

Diaphragm type regulators are more complex and are environmentally sealed which is why they are used more for cold water divers and for divers in silty and high particle content waters.  The diaphragm is a flexible cover over the air intake valve that flexes in-ward or collapses as air is breathed in from the second stage allowing air to rush into the medium-pressure chamber of the first stage.

Piston regulators are said to have better flow rates since there is only one moving part, the piston, however performance wise most differences in flow are hardly significant enough to draw up a comparison. diaphragm regs are more suitable to diving in extreme conditions such as dirty water or cold water due to their “sealed” design.

So which one is better Piston or Diaphragm? Perhaps in the past there was good enough reason to select one over the other, but in today’s world, both types of regulators have seen extensive development and as it stands now, there is no compelling reason to select one over the other.

Un-Balanced, Balanced or Over Balanced?

These terms refer to the parts used in the first stage of regulators and mean the following-

An unbalanced regulator uses fewer parts. As a result it sacrifices a bit performance at lower tank pressures and at deeper depths. It’s mainly suitable for very basic diving. An unbalanced regulator will become harder to breathe from as depth increases and or tank pressure decreases. Usually un-balanced regulators are offered on the base models of regulator product-lines.

A balanced regulator uses more parts in the first stage of the regulator to ensure that it delivers the same amount of air at all pressures and depths. So the performance of such regulators is consistent at all times of the dive and in either shallow or deep waters.

An overbalanced diving regulator incorporates a technology that makes breathing easier as you go deeper. These type of first stage regulators is mostly seen in the top ranges.

What should you go in for? Always try and opt for a balanced regulator and an overbalanced one only if you can afford it.  A balanced reg  is all you would need to meet the needs of recreational diving as it makes breathing resistance less and therefore breathing easier. If you are in to deep diving then an overbalanced regulator will adjust to depth offering you more air the deeper you go.

Scuba Regulator Selection Guide – II was written by Nevin for Aquaviews - SCUBA Blog - Bringing You The Other 70% Of Our World

DIN or International A-Clamp?

One of the most basic decisions a Scuba Diver has to make while selecting a Regulator first stage is the kind of tank connection fitting it should have. Essentially there are two types of tank fittings DIN and International.

The “International” fitting is also known as “Yoke” or “A-Clamp” or sometimes simply as “Clamp”. The International fitting is older and also the most widely used type of connector for attaching the vertical tank valve to the regulator’s first stage. It resembles an uppercase “A” and has a screw on the top to tighten the valve to the tank, as well as a horizontally mounted release valve to turn the air to the first stage on or off.  While A-Clamps or International are more widely used across the world, they  cannot contain pressure greater than 232bar after which the o-ring can over pressurize which is why they are gradually being replaced by the newer safer DIN connectors.

DIN or Deutsches Institut für Normung (German Institute for Standardization) is a newer method utilizing a screw fitting to mount the first stage to the cylinder. Instead of the regulator clamping onto the outside of the cylinder valve, it screws into it. The O-ring is contained internally, well protected and the screws threads allow tank pressures of up to 300bar. DIN fittings are being more widely implemented round the world especially by technical divers.

featured above is the DIN Type Zeagle ReZort Din First Stage only

The type you opt for depends entirely on the places you dive the most. We recommend you buy a DIN regulator and an adaptor that can convert the DIN to an A-Clamp if the dive shop at your destination doesn’t support DIN. However if you have an A-Clamp type regulator and the Dive Shop only provides DIN tanks, then you have a problem. A-Clamps can be converted by dive shops to DIN but at a price.

Nitrox or Air?

While it might appear so, not all regulators are Nitrox ready, unless the manufacturer specifically states it as a Nitrox Ready Regulator. So what makes a Nitrox regulator different from an ordinary one? Well not much but To be ‘nitrox ready’ manufacturers have to ensure that the regulator and all its components are capable of handling a higher than normal O2 content, and will not react with the oxygen corroding parts or cause combustion. Nitrox regulators also need to ensure the regulator is contaminant free, and that lubricants or grease used are O2 “friendly”. EAN Regulators also have thicker O2 corrosion resistant O-rings that are specially colored green to differentiate them from the regular ones. Always check the EAN percentage of your nitrox regulator as some offer EAN 23% and others up to 40%. Titanium regulators are not suitable for use with nitrox. Nitrox regulators need to be oxygen cleaned each year to keep them contaminant free at least once annually or more frequently if contaminated with unclean air which can increase the ongoing maintenance costs.

Scuba Regulator Selection Guide – I was written by Nevin for Aquaviews - SCUBA Blog - Bringing You The Other 70% Of Our World

featured above-The Ocean Reef Neptune Space with GSM Kit available at LeisurePro.com

What’s the difference between a Full Face Mask (FFM) and Regular Scuba Mask?
A full face scuba diving mask is a type of diving mask that completely seals the face of the diver from water and which also includes a mouthpiece is built into the mask allowing the diver to breathe. In other words Full face masks (FFMs) allow the second stage regulator to be connected directly into the mask, thus eliminating the need to hold the regulator mouthpiece with your teeth. There is a higher comfort level with breathing through a full face mask as compared to a traditional mask and regulator.

FFM’s are also bigger and heavier than conventional scuba masks and require special training prior to use, but are secured well with straps that go around the head so, there’s virtually no chance of it dislodging. To top it off the seals around the entire face are pretty airtight not leaving much less risk of water leaking into the mask during a dive. This also facilitates use of communication equipment fitted in the mask to function well. Full masks can be three to four times more expensive than half-mask models which makes it all the more important to know what you’re buying when you choose to invest in one.

featured above- The OTS Guardian Full Face Mask available at LeisurePro.com

Choosing a Full Face Mask

1. It’s important to consider what type of diving you intend on using the mask for. For simple cold water diving, you’re just looking for basic protection from the water coming into contact with your face. A basic full face mask like the Cressi Full Face Rubber Mask. If you’re looking to communicate underwater as they nowadays do for underwater weddings, there are full face masks in the market that come fitted with basic underwater transceiver units or more advanced communication systems. The Ocean Reef Neptune Series of full face masks specialize in such masks with the latest and most innovative underwater communication units included. They even cater for commercial divers with masks featuring shield displays and visor lights.
2. Try on a few different masks to see which is most comfortable on your face. It’s best if you try on the masks while wearing a hood to get the best feel of it.
3. Inspect the silicon around the mask to make sure there are no visible gaps. When worn, slide your finger along the outer skirt of the mask and check for gaps between the seal and your face.
4. To ensure the mask fits well, nod your head and shake it about a little to test that it doesn’t shift on your face. Gently push upwards on the chin of your mask to check the snugness.
5. Check your peripheral vision in the mask to test your range of visibility.
6. And lastly, check the surface air valve located on the side of the mask. Since FFMs don’t allow for snorkel usage, the valve permits surface air breathing.

featured above- The Cressi Full Face Rubber Mask and Ocean Reef Neptune Space Predator with shield display and visor light available at LeisurePro.com

A Guide To Full Face Scuba Masks was written by Noreen for Aquaviews - SCUBA Blog - Bringing You The Other 70% Of Our World